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Whirlpool refrigerator ET1MTKXKT01


jtech1111

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hello there, konichiwa..i need to know how to convert the defrost control board to conventional mechanical defrost timer.

i found out that the electronic board for crap has a burned mark like short circuit. i tried plug in the regular defrost timer, of course i use whirlpool with 2143 terminal no. but the compressor is not kicking in..oh by the way, i already repaired this fridge in the past about six month ago. the compressor relay switch burned out due to power fluctuation here in da island. i replaced it with a after market 3-n-1 relay switch.

SOS! help! thank you.

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Friend, I wouldn't be replacing the ADC with a maual defrost timer, although it can be done.

Your customer bought this refrigerator with this auto-sensing defrost feature, replacing it with a manual defrost timer will be denying your customer of a feature that was included with this refrigerator. Also, you are setting yourself up for any problems and liability issues that may come up in the future because the refrig was altered.  As for the compressor,  I'm sure it got fried by using the 3 n'1 solid state relay. This relay should be used on a temporary basis only when the OEM part is not available and should be replaced as soon as soon as the OEM part comes in. I would  check your run and start relay terminals and see what kind of readings you get. The 3n'1 can also take out your ADC board.

I'm not trying to discourage you in any way, but just trying to help. I'm sure your intentions are sincere.  Others may have a different take on this but this is my opinion only.

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thanks for the valuable info. but my customer won't pay 69.29+shipping for a ripoff part plus my labor, not to mention his tennant wont have a fridge for a week or more. i have to convert that fridge one way or the other.my customer main concern is make it work. sometimes doing it the right way is is the only way but a remedy is always preferable.

don't worry i always tell them the honest truth about their appliance. thanks 

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I wouldn't be calling an  ADC a ripoff part just because it's a little expensive, that is the Original Manufacturers part for this refrigerator. A lot of parts can be expensive but by altering it would not be in your best interest. As a fine tech you have a moral obligation to your customers and other technicians to follow certain guidelines and rule of thumb. By asserting to replace the Original part with a different value will lead others & newcomers to false practice and doesn't help us Techs any at all when we are all trying to prove our integrity & good workmanship in this field. A remedy is not always preferable but doing it the correct way is!

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ok brah you got me there, we convert this all the time here.

i went back armed with new ADC but the damn buggah don't wanna work. compressor wont kick in..so i remove the oem relay and install a new solid state 3n1 but no avail..bummer i said..so i test the compressor terminal, the R to ground has cotinuity(beeping on continuity on tester), the S has continuity, and R and S has continuity..well, this is a sign that the compressor is shot right? grounded? the fridge met its demise so to speak?

thanks, Bro.

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If you are getting a ground from any compressor terminal to metal with the wires removed your compressor is grounded and has to be replaced or the frig replaced...

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The 3n'1 that you replaced 6 months ago took out your compressor ! If it was within the warranty period for the sealed system & compressor,  then you would be the one to eat it.  Ask any Whirlpool authorized techs or any tech for that matter. I think this issue speaks for itself and is done. No need for harsh language as I was just trying to assist you .

Take care bro.

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