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  • Upcoming Events

    • 26 October 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow the Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, October 26 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Magic Chef Model # 31FA - 3KLX


Waneewek

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Can you explain to me how the oven safety valve works on this oven?  The valve is Repair Clinic's part # 1290.  The valve has printed on it (Do not to apply 120 volts to valve), but when I checked the voltage at the terminals on the valve there was 120 volts.  The valve is in series with the hot surface ignitor which ( I think ) needs the 120 volts.  The safety valve is rated for 3.3 V.A.C. and 3.6 Amp. 60Hz.

Thanks 

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The igniter has to get hot enough to draw down the rating for the amps and volts posted on the side of the gas valve, then hold it open when the oven is calling for heat....if the igniter is not getting hot enough, getting weak, it will not draw enough amps to open the gas valve or let it close in a timely manner when the range stops calling for heat...if the igniter is broken the gas valve will never open, this type of system is great as far as safety goes.....is this clear as mud?  ;)

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So, what your saying is, that I should be able to take an amp reading to trouble shoot this type of gas valve? 

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Yes...  But if you did your test at the gas valve with the wires on the valve and read 120VAC you already know the valve is bad.  The 120VAC indicates an open valve.  If it was closed, you would of read 0VAC.  Once you have a new valve in the unit, and assuming the rest of the circuit is good, once the igniter is glowing you can monitor the amp draw of the igniter as the valve prepares to open.

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