Roper red4440sqo

[fixit guy]

This plain Jane Roper keeps blowing thermal fuses.  Installed new fuse, dryer ran 1 minute and blows fuse. Installed new fuse and left duct off, instructed customer to have apartment maintainance to clean vent.

On the second load this fuse blows with vent disconnected.  The heat cycles at 125-160.    What is making these fuses blow?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Something's missing here.  If the heating element is cycling normally and you have good, strong air blow (no internal blockages for open ducts inside the dryer), then the thermal fuse should not blow; they open in response to overheat conditions.  Overheats are caused by 1) heating element staying on or 2) insufficient air flow.  

Only other thing I can think of is a loose connection causing arcing and taking out the thermal fuse. 

[nickfixit]

Did you replace the operating thermostat? You should always replace the thermostat when the thermal fuse fails.

Nick

[fixit guy]

Thanks for the reply everyone.  The first time out I checked the heat at the vent.  Off at 160, on at 125 thats the way I left it.  Dryed two loads of clothes and blowed thermal fuse.  Replace fuse and checked operating tempertures.  Heat would not shut-off. Replace operating thermastat and fixed dryer.

P.S.  I thought that you replace the High limit when the thermal cutoff blows? Keep me straight here!

Thanks.......

[Pegi]

Well there are two thermal safetys sort of, the thermal cut out on the side of the heating element canister is replaced along with the safety thermostat on the side of the element, when the white plastic thermofuse blows you should replace the cycling thermostat according to Whhirlpool...is this clear as mud? 

[fixit guy]

Pegi, you the Man! 

Opps, Lady:clapping:

 

 

[Pegi]