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  • Upcoming Events

    • 01 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, February 1 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Roper red4440sqo


fixit guy

Recommended Posts

Posted

This plain Jane Roper keeps blowing thermal fuses.  Installed new fuse, dryer ran 1 minute and blows fuse. Installed new fuse and left duct off, instructed customer to have apartment maintainance to clean vent.

On the second load this fuse blows with vent disconnected.  The heat cycles at 125-160.    What is making these fuses blow?

  • Replies 6
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  • Team Samurai
Posted

Something's missing here.  If the heating element is cycling normally and you have good, strong air blow (no internal blockages for open ducts inside the dryer), then the thermal fuse should not blow; they open in response to overheat conditions.  Overheats are caused by 1) heating element staying on or 2) insufficient air flow.  

Only other thing I can think of is a loose connection causing arcing and taking out the thermal fuse. 

Posted

Did you replace the operating thermostat? You should always replace the thermostat when the thermal fuse fails.

Nick

Posted

Thanks for the reply everyone.  The first time out I checked the heat at the vent.  Off at 160, on at 125 thats the way I left it.  Dryed two loads of clothes and blowed thermal fuse.  Replace fuse and checked operating tempertures.  Heat would not shut-off. Replace operating thermastat and fixed dryer.

P.S.  I thought that you replace the High limit when the thermal cutoff blows? Keep me straight here!

Thanks.......

Posted

Well there are two thermal safetys sort of, the thermal cut out on the side of the heating element canister is replaced along with the safety thermostat on the side of the element, when the white plastic thermofuse blows you should replace the cycling thermostat according to Whhirlpool...is this clear as mud?  :P

Posted

Pegi, you the Man! 

Opps, Lady:clapping:

 

 

Posted
:cool:

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