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Caloric wall oven RWS212


megadan66

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Posted

Initial prob. blowing the broiler door off cause the gas was coming in for about 3-5 min before ignition.

Alright so like any good parts changing monkey I replaced the igniter.Thinking it was weak.

Same prob.

Before I go out and guess that it's the valve are there some tests I can do to it and the old igniter.And yes I have a volt/ohm meter.

Oh and I'm not really a parts changing monkey,but I do feel like it some days.....Dan

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Posted

Start by pulling the burner for a cleaning & inspect the burner tube. While it is removed check the burner orfice for obstructions such as rust or grease.

I believe this uses a 3.2-3.6 amp ignition system so check the circuit amps.

Posted

[user=11934]hvacdrd[/user] wrote:

 

I believe this uses a 3.2-3.6 amp ignition system so check the circuit amps.

Do me a favor and becauseI think the only ? is one not asked how do I do this ?

God now I really feel like a parts changing monkey.Thank god I came from the used appliance industry and can say Somebody else said just try this....M-D

Posted

OK here's my dilemma oh great one.This wall oven takes the flat ignitor and usually has the one with the base that is tan and  long enough to fit into the back of the wall of the oven and I change em out with the short one with the white base and put that little piece of fiber glass in the hole.The difference in price between the 2 is $12.50 and I've been told theres no difference electronically.So I did the amp reading with the new ignitor and got 3.5-3.6 amps then wired the old one back in and got 3.0-3.1 amps.So I measured the resistance of the 2 ignitors and the old one is is 25 ohms more tha the new one which is 148 ohms.So point me in the direction of nirvana and also help two little old ladies get there wall oven fixed so they don't have to spend a fortune on a new one and can have there family from California home for Thanksgiving dinner.

PS Am I gonna have to pull this mother out of it's cabinet to replace the valve ?

Posted

Your measurements would be as expected on the old vs. new for amps and resistance. Both indicate the old one was in fact bad.  Have you been able to check the burner & orfice yet? Is this on LP or Natural?

If you were to turn on the oven, wait 30-40 seconds when the valve should open, does it light with an match or lighter stick and if so is the flame normal size?

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