Maytag MDG7500AWQ gas dryer

[profix]

I'm headed back to visit this dryer, visit number 4.

1) displayed power default, diagnostic check displaye code 60, (dont know what that means). I cleaned out dryer checked connections, voltage ok, did ohm readings, cleaned sensor, like 1999 sloped front manual advised. I re-started dryer , worked fine.

2) displayed power default, again. Checked for lose connections, and tested door switch, which tested fine. I advised owner that pc board needed to be replaced.

3) Part came in, part # 33002886. I replaced board,and thermister the board was a little different. After installation, I ran the dryer it worked fine. Then,several days later I get the call. Owner said its not drying, display reads motor not running. Thats it, I need help!!!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I think you're dealing with a flakey neutral connection in the motor's power circuit. Check the neutral wire at both the motor and timer ends-- look closely at the harness connectors, you may find the neutral wire is either loose or its pin is slightly receded in the harness connector. (See this war story-- it was dealing with a Maytag washer, but same principle applies.)

[profix]

Thanks for the fast reply, I'll buy the brew if and when you stop buy in Santa Fe NM. Mastertech011 posted on June 16th 2007 about using the MDG9800 schem. when changing the board. The info provided in the box was corn-fuse-ing!! If I use the MDG9800 looks like I have to add a jumper from#1/bb2 to L1 heater/gas valve relay (RL2). Is this correct? :shock:

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

What's the series number of this dryer? They made a control board harness revision after series 34-- see the attached bulletin.

TS699.pdf

[profix]

The series on this unit is 40.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Ok, another thing we need to determine is whether or not they've corrected those instructions with the new board. Can you fax them to me at 866-315-4504?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Got your fax. The instructions in your kit are newer than those in the other topic you mentioned (12/2007 vs. 8/2005); although, after reading through each, they are substantively the same.

I don't have any personal experience with the factory instructions being grossly wrong in this case so I can't recommend that you do anything other that what's instructed by the kit instruction sheet.

[profix]

Thanks for your help in this matter, I did go back the only problem that I foun was that it will not dry. The flame does come on but short cycles not creating enough heat. i did check other components which all semm to be ok based on the manual. I faxed you a hand drawing after I installed the new board with existing wire. Seems like something is missing, but I guess when your learnig new tech. it will be tough at first. Thanks, hope this may help others.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

OK, heating but short-cycling is a whole different problem. The usual suspect here is the venting system. If you have a calibrated palm, you can tell if the exhaust pressure is right by feel. The best test is to run the dryer with the vent disconnected. Possible you mighta crimped the vent hose when you slapped it all back together and pushed it back into place?

[profix]

I did want to post the results and findings. First of all The Samurai was correct about  the exhaust vent. My mistake was to listen to the appliance owner, when they said they had cleaned it out. They cleaned out about 3 ft of the vent. The 2nd problem was the installation of the vent. The home did have a basement so it made it easy to trace the vent, but the vent was approx. 15 -20 ft long with four 90 degree elbows. Even a vent brush would not push thru. The owner had it changed and it worked great! Thanks again. Hope this will help others.