Kitchen Aid Fridge #KTRC19MKSS01

[dcs]

We have a Kitchen Aid Refregerator model KTRC19MKSS01.  Last week we noticed it had stopped cooling.  (Kinda obvious when my husband reached in for some ice).

We replaced the compressor start device following info in the faq on "Refrigerator Warming Up and Makes an Occasional Clicking Noise".

All was good for a week but now we are hearing the clicking noise and the ice is starting to melt.  The start device is fried again (black crumbs come out when I shake it).

I'd appreciate any advice on what to check to determine why these are failing.

  Thanks.

 

[appl.tech.29501]

sounds like the compressor is becoming hard to start which will fry the relay (start device) most likely you are gonna have to change the compressor ($400-$500) or buy a new frige. What was the part# of the start device that you put on? You can do an amp draw test on the compressor if you have an amp probe meter but my experience is when this particular situation happens it's a bad outcome.

part# 965237 @ repair clinic....If this doesn't work it's inevetable

[dcs]

Thanks for the quick response.

The original start device was part number 2212963.  The replacement part was 2225930.

We don't have an amp meter.  I'm getting mixed results testing the resistance from the compressor pegs to ground as described in the article.  I usually get infinite resistance, but sometimes get a reading.  (It might be time to invest in a new multimeter).

[appl.tech.29501]

you should not be getting a reading from the pegs to ground, if you are your compressor is shoted and is no good.

[dcs]

Thanks.  We called the manufacturer.  The unit is beyond the full warranty period, but the compressor parts are still covered.  So, we'll hopefully just have to pay for a technician to come out.

I'll write back with results.

[dcs]

The repairman said the compressor was ok.  I'm guessing that testing the draw is more complicated than what I saw him do.  If so, and based on his explanation, I think he only tested resistance.

(I may have been doing something wrong the few times I got readings testing resistance to ground. Most often I got none).

He said the problem was the overload and relay.  Arghhh....  I decided not to spend the $300 he wanted to replace it and just paid the diagnostic fee.

The parts place will exchange the burned out start device under warranty, so we'll pick that up tomorrow morning.  Hopefully the last one was just faulty.

And, if that one burns out... or better, before we burn it out...

The repairman didn't check the capacitor at all.  I tried just now.  At the 200M setting, the digital display jumped to a value less then 1.0 then slowly crept up to the 190's before returning to it's original value (1 at the far left of the display, which I've been assuming is infinity since that's the reading when the probes are not touching anything).  Reversing the leads gave a similar result.  That's good, right?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

That sounds like a good cap to me. Let's hope the new start box does the trick!

[appl.tech.29501]

[user=19884]dcs[/user] wrote:

The repairman said the compressor was ok.  I'm guessing that testing the draw is more complicated than what I saw him do.  If so, and based on his explanation, I think he only tested resistance.

(I may have been doing something wrong the few times I got readings testing resistance to ground. Most often I got none).

He said the problem was the overload and relay.  Arghhh....  I decided not to spend the $300 he wanted to replace it and just paid the diagnostic fee.

The parts place will exchange the burned out start device under warranty, so we'll pick that up tomorrow morning.  Hopefully the last one was just faulty.

And, if that one burns out... or better, before we burn it out...

The repairman didn't check the capacitor at all.  I tried just now.  At the 200M setting, the digital display jumped to a value less then 1.0 then slowly crept up to the 190's before returning to it's original value (1 at the far left of the display, which I've been assuming is infinity since that's the reading when the probes are not touching anything).  Reversing the leads gave a similar result.  That's good, right?

wow, $300, I charge $130 total for that job

[dcs]

[user=27301]appl.tech.29501[/user] wrote:

[user=19884]dcs[/user] wrote:

<snip> He said the problem was the overload and relay.  Arghhh....  I decided not to spend the $300 he wanted to replace it and just paid the diagnostic fee.

<snip>

wow, $300, I charge $130 total for that job

According to the estimate he was charging $90 for this:

which looks to me like a simple plug-in like the one we used.  But he brought in with him something like:

which had some loose parts inside.  I'm guessing the relay and overload were the loose parts rattling around when I picked it up in frustration.  He said he would have thrown in a replacement capacitor as well because he'd have needed one with wires rather than the simple plug-in we have.  Labor was a little over $200.

He was insinuating that the part we used might be some cheap replacement, but it was what KitchenAid recommended and looked more like the original than what he was going to do.

[dcs]

[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:

That sounds like a good cap to me. Let's hope the new start box does the trick!

It's been a little over 24 hours now.  So far, so good.  But I didn't buy too many items that need refrigeration when I went grocery shopping tonight.  For a week or so I'm gonna get by on Tang for my morning OJ and PBJ for lunch.

[appl.tech.29501]

yeah, I wouldn't buy a lot of stuff for like 2 weeks if you can stand it.

I charge $42.95 for the part and $15.00 labor (it only takes 5 min. to put it on) he's really ripping people off in my opinion. Most labor rates in my area are $60 an hour, and service calles range from $45-$75 dealer cost on that part is only $18....anyways, thats my 2 cents