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Anyone have a tech manual for Kenmore M#79079213300 gas range


Rocket Appliance

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Posted

Hello all! I'm looking for some tech stuff for this gas range.....customer said it wont light so I assume it is the igniter but customer also told me when it started to act up it made a "loud bang" from behind the oven???? then she checked the oven and there was a strong smell of gas as she opened the oven door?....I thought the gas would not come on until the igniter was hot enough to light? Do I have this right? I don't work on many gas appliances. I have my ticket to work on stuff up to 400,000 BTUs, but not ticketed to hook appliances up..ect...just want to be safe!:) and make sure I have the theory right...lol...

Customer also said the broil doesn't work either....

Thanks for your help once again.

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Posted

Thanks RegUS_PatOff....that helps! I don't know why the schematic is always missing for me...lol...just luck I guess...I didn't think of checking the U.S. sears site...lol...just figured cause its Canadian it wouldn't come up.....but it did! thanks for puting me on the right track!

I found some helpful hint from the Samurai, of course it was after I posted:?...lol.. enrolled student and I don't look at the basics:X BAD APPLIANCE REPAIRMAN!!! I think I will quietly donate to the beer fund for my stupidity..lol..cause I only really seem to learn the hard way:cool:......

Thanks again!

Always thankful.....Rocket

Posted

We all learn from our mistakes (I've learned alot)

  • Team Samurai
Posted

Possibilities are

- borderline-bad ignitor

- dirty burner tube

- bad gas valve

Check the current draw on the ignitor, that's the best way to assess it.

Make sure the ignition ports in the burner tube-- the ones closest to the ignitor-- are clear of gookus.

Check the burner flame when it cuts off. Should just stop quickly. If it sputters for a bit and has to think about it a while, that's usually a bad valve.

Posted

Thanks guys! As always I learn something everytime I Log on to "THE SITE"

 

Posted

Also, a weak ignitor that has just went borderline can just barely open the valve enough to let gas thru but not enough gas to light the burner and the customer will give the compliant of smells gas and oven won't light.

Have also seen where an ignitor is borderline and will still light the burner but the flame burns high then almost goes out then back to high again and keeps modulating like this.

I believe the cause to be the ignitor is just borderline enough to open the valve good enough for ignition then the gas flowing over the bimetal in the valve cools the bimetal causing the valve to begin closing down, then as it closes down and the gas flow is less the bimetal can heat up enough to open the valve fully again, and the cycle continues.

I'm sure a new ignitor will solve your problem......

Posted

Thanks Willie,

That sounds like whats going on here....that makes sense about the bi-metal being cooled by the gas flowing over it.

It seems to me that a gas oven is fairly simple to diagnose its either the 

igniter is bad or the valve or like Samaria said just needs to be cleaned ( the ignition ports in the burner tube-- the ones closest to the igniter-- are clear of gookus.)

Thanks again, Rocket....

  • Team Samurai
Posted

[user=36]Budget Appliance Repair[/user] wrote:

I believe the cause to be the ignitor is just borderline enough to open the valve good enough for ignition then the gas flowing over the bimetal in the valve cools the bimetal causing the valve to begin closing down, then as it closes down and the gas flow is less the bimetal can heat up enough to open the valve fully again, and the cycle continues.

This is an excellent theory, Sublime Master William, and evinces a clear-thinking and logical mind! I have seen the border-line ignitor problem many times but had never visualized the physical nature of the problem this way. Makes total sense, though. Domo!

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