Viking Proffessional Oven

[computerpulse]

I don't have a model number yet but does anyone have experience with these? Gas on top, I believe it's going to be electric oven and a warmer oven.  Anyway they claim unit will not get above 325 degrees.  I am going out there blind.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks:)

[Scottthewolf]

Get me the model number  which is located under the top burners, usually on a sticker to the left. 

You could have a bad oven thermostat, possibly a bad oven relay.

Let me know what the model number is and I can help you more. I have worked on several Viking ranges.

[computerpulse]

I will find out today and get back to you

 

Thankss

Ed Coolidge

[computerpulse]

Looks like the regulator is acting up.  Hit it with a screw driver handle and it kicks on properly.  However I could not find the model and am wondering if I submit you some pics if you could tell?  So I can find the right regulator for this model.

Turns out this unit is all gas

 

thanks

[Scottthewolf]

Very common problem. The bake ignitor(s) are weak and need replacing.  Also check the bake burners to make sure the ports near the ignitors aren't burnt open.

Your part number for the ignitor(s) is PB040001.  If you need to find a distributor for Viking parts, let me know.  Viking parts can be hard to find.

[computerpulse]

What about the regulator part number.

[Scottthewolf]

That is a safety valve, not a regulator. It is NOT causing your problem. The weak ignitors are causing your problem/

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=19296]Scottthewolf[/user] is correct, week ignitor

PB040001

click on picture No longer available

http://www.searspartsdirect.com  $ 81

http://www.myapplianceparts.com  $ 54

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Never had good luck with Viking ignitors. But the Maytag ignitors are less expensive and last longer in these ranges.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3377

[computerpulse]

If this is the safety valve and I tap on it the gas flows correctly would this not be the problem.  The ignitors all work.  The problem is the gas is not flowing correctly through the two burners in the oven.  The Broiler burner works correctly.  The two bottom burners are not producing enough gas flow but if you tap on the valve they flow strong.  I will replace the ignitors but I don't think this has anything to do with gas flow. 

[computerpulse]

Also anybody want to take a shot at the model number on this unit?

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=23747]computerpulse[/user] wrote:

If this is the safety valve and I tap on it the gas flows correctly would this not be the problem.  The ignitors all work.  The problem is the gas is not flowing correctly through the two burners in the oven.  The Broiler burner works correctly.  The two bottom burners are not producing enough gas flow but if you tap on the valve they flow strong.  I will replace the ignitors but I don't think this has anything to do with gas flow. 

the ignitors are in series with the gas safety valve. Each ignitor must draw 3.2A - 3.6A for the corresponding valve to open.

Ignitors get weak, and will barely open the valve.

You could verify this if you could measure the current flow through the circuit. It must be at least 3.2 A (when the igintor gets HOT, within about 1 minute)

[Scottthewolf]

Ok, one last time I will tell you WHERE to look for the model number.

REMOVE the two top burner grates and the drip pan, to the LEFT of the main top will be your model and serial plate.  If you cannot do this, then you should not be attempting this repair.

And yes, the ignitors are still your problem, not the safety valve.  Do what RegUSPatOff said to do if you still don't believe us.

[computerpulse]

Relax!    Hold your horses!  OK OK OK I got it!  I will take care of this today.  Also I am taking your advice on using Maytag ignitors instead.  Plus easier to get asap then vicking.

 

Thanks

[computerpulse]

Ok guy's you win a Beer!  That's all it was.  Please next time all you had to do was explain how the safety valve worked.  That was perfect knowledge.

 

Thanks

Ed

[RegUS_PatOff]

[Scottthewolf]

I get first crack at the beer, since I answered first, LOL.

[computerpulse]

Scott, I need a gas flow meter.  Any suggestions.  cheaper the better and preferably digital.  Thanks

[Scottthewolf]

Also called a manometer. Try an HVAC supply store.

May I ask why you need a manometer?

 

[computerpulse]

I ran into a situtuation the other day on a gas dryer where I had to question the customers gas input to the home.  Something was not right but I could not put a gauge on it to see what was going on.  I had to call the gas company to come out and take measurements.  Come to find out the pressures were too high and they replaced the customers regulator and meter.  Manufactures specs were flow rates of 5" to 6" water column and the regulated input according to the gas company isr area is 7" Natural Gas.  The gas dryer although burning the fuel was spewing excess gas.  I replaced the gas valve on the dryer but it did not correct the issue.

[VikingMaster]

I own a 2007 BMW, think I can switch the parts out on my motor and tranny from a honda to save money and everyone knows that hondas go forever! :headscratch:

You get what you pay for...Atleast the customer thinks that 90% of the time.

The valve you showed is a Dual Thermal valve.

And the model looks like a vgic model, even though this post is nearly a year old...

[ROBBYRIG]

[user=46714]VikingMaster[/user] wrote:

I own a 2007 BMW, think I can switch the parts out on my motor and tranny from a honda to save money and everyone knows that hondas go forever! :headscratch:

You get what you pay for...Atleast the customer thinks that 90% of the time.

I agree with what you say in theory, however we're talking about an ignitor.  It's the exact same part albeit a lot less expensive.  To use your analogy, it would be like buying a new set of tires for your BMW at the dealership for $450 or the exact same tires down the road at Jim's garage for $250. 

[VikingMaster]

99% of my clients/Viking range corp customers don't worry about price. They worry about name, thats why they purchased that 8000$ unit, and spent over 35k on appliances. I know of a Tech that took a "Maytag" ignitor into a NFL superstars home and when this Gentlemen walked in and watched him take the part out the Maytag bag and put it on his range? Well it got ugly quick when he charged him FULL price for a 5$ ignitor. This tech lost his job due to this

Theres a reason why Viking doesn't allow their parts to every tom dick and harry's part shop to sell muchless purchase...I understand the reason for tech's to use them? But Do not agree with it, to each his own.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Give the customers the choice ..

show them the parts and the price

and let them decide.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

Give the customers the choice ..

show them the parts and the price

and let them decide.

BOOYAH! Reg just nailed it. I explain to customers that all ignitors are made of the same material and work the same way. But if it comes in a Viking bag it'll cost twice as much as the ones that come in a Maytag box (and they're a little more than $5). I've fixed lots of Viking and Garland ranges around here for individuals, churches, country clubs, etc. You know what? I have never had a customer in this situation tell me to put in the more expensive ignitor.

BTW, what's the parts warranty on Viking ignitors? 90 days like everyone else?