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HELP!! Intermittent operation of right front expandable element m#cples399ec3


Rocket Appliance

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This slide in is driving me crazy....the guy that owns it tried wiring it up himself,... good thing hes a paramedic cause he crossed some wires and fried the transformer in it which I replaced with a new one....I have the exact range in my shop with complete with parts just a smashed glass cook top....

The problem is sometimes the surface elements don't work,..the one thats not working now is the right front expandable element isn't working....Ill try to attach the pdf for this slide in...Ive checked the limit switch in the front panel and its never open when Ive checked it before...It seems when I shut the breaker off for a little while while I check things ( I never find the problem)  when I flip the breaker back on everything works fine sometimes for a month or two or just a couple of days...I wish I could find the problem going back over and over is killing my confidence..lol.

Thanks in advance,...                  

                                Jolee

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Thanks RegUs PatOff  (Love the new avatar).....Do you think the Limit switch thats pictured on the part of the schematic near the element is a cutoff type limit or is just a thermal switch that turns on Hot Surface warning light on ,..on the cooktop?  Im just thinking maybe a weak  or faulty limit switch,..thinking maybe that could be it...any idea??????...It looks like its all one component on the element itself...Im thinking of just swapping out the whole element  with a known good one..(Ive got the same complete oven in my shop for parts.)

Thanks again,

  Jolee.

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[user=29719]Rocket Appliance[/user] wrote:

Do you think the Limit switch thats pictured on the part of the schematic near the element is a cutoff type limit or is just a thermal switch that turns on Hot Surface warning light on ,..on the cooktop? 

looks like it's both.

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As far as those smooth surface glass cooktops, almost all those style elements have the "Limit Switch" & "Hot Surface Switch" in the same sensor, (one on each element).

I don't know what the limit is for the limit switches, (how hot they have to get before they are suppose to shut down).  You use to be able to purchase just the sensor that contained the two switches for some brands, but from what I've seen lately they have all gone to not selling the sensor seperate, have to replace the complete element if one of the sensor switches go bad.

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Well...I changed out the the element and the control for the same element  that was not working this morning and put it all back together and fired it up and everything worked fine.......until now!!!!! I just got a call back!!!! Grrrr!!! Now the element that I replaced is not working just like before???? and now some of the other ones are not working, like before as well (not sure if all are not working, have not returned to customers home)

I was told this morning that the power has gone out for the whole block for a couple of hours last week???...Hmmmm...Ive already replaced the  the transformer but wondering if maybe the transformer has gone bad from the power being off then turned back on...maybe a power surge???...

Has anyone seen a transformer act like this before?

It seems to me that the cooktop circuit doesn't have that many things that can go wrong...Its looks like to me that all there is,...element with the limits attached wich are not removabale like Budget said, then wiring then the control for the individual element,then the transformer...do es anyone see anything else that would cause these kind of problems??...

Thanks for the help guys,...

  Jolee.

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Depends on how he mis-wired the transformer.

If he connected the transformer to 220v L2 & L1 instead of 120v L2 & N, besides the transformer, any one or all of the electronic controllers may be bad.

 

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if all elements are not working you might have a burnt switch on the door lock, it cycles on power-up so it might have got a dose of bad voltage from the first mis-wiring

 

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also you say problem goes away after a power down/up, again here the latch resets, maybe its the high current trhough a burnt latch switch causing it to open intermittent, i'd change the latch next

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My two cents worth..... check the wires at the terminal block at the rear of the unit ....the nuts may not be torqued enough.... they get hot , metal expands ...no current draw.....keep us posted..

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Well..... I fixed the problem!!!!!  certified tech group 51 nailed it!!!! The terminal block at the rear of the wall oven was stripped!!! It would only tighten a little then skip...I found it by just wiggling wires looking for a burnt wire....It was the neutral wire that was loose it did not show any signs of a loose contact ie;burnt surface of eyelet or burn marks on the post where the nut goes on...

I replaced the terminal block with a new one and have not been called back yet....knock on wood...lol....

thanks to everyone who helped me on this one, brnt toast,...I didn't even know there was that door latch switch on this model that would cause that condition??...Thanks again! sometimes the schematic just doesn't give you all the components...

Thanks again all!!!!!

Jolee @ Rocket Appliance

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