G.E. GLASSTOP COOKTOP MOD JP340B0C1BB

[texasred]

Unit has one hot surface indicator light. It stays on all the time. any ideas how to troubleshoot or repair? 

[RegUS_PatOff]

[align=left]I could email the GE JP340 Technical Service Guide[/align]

[align=left]If you have X-drive access, it's: 31-9070 Pan Sense Cktp.pdf 3 MB[/align]

[align=left]There is a Temperautre Sensor Built into each surface element.

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[align=left]From The Service Guide:

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[align=left]HOT SURFACE Indicator Lights

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[align=left]The HOT SURFACE indicator lights will glow when any surface unit is turned ON and will remain on until the surface has cooled to approximately 150°F.

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[align=left]Technician Mode

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[align=left]To enter the Technician Mode, lock the cooktop by holding the CONTROL LOCK key for 3 seconds.

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[align=left]The control will beep 2 times and the word LOCK will be displayed in the timer display. Press the timer ON/OFF key and simultaneously press the + keys of the LF and LR surface elements. The timer display will flash TECH MODE when the cooktop is in Technician Mode.[/align]

[align=left]Temperature Check (in Celsius)

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[align=left]To check the temperature of a specific surface element, press that element’s ON/OFF key while in Technician Mode. C will display in the window of the specific surface element and the temperature will appear in the timer display.

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[align=left]To exit the Technician Mode, simultaneously press the timer ON/OFF key and the (+) keys of the LF and LR surface elements, or unlock the cooktop by holding down the CONTROL LOCK key for 3 seconds. The control will beep 2 times and the CONTROL LOCK LED will turn OFF.[/align]

[texasred]

I appreciate the info. This model has only one hot light, I cannot find info on this manual cooktop the manual posted has some info on non-electronic units but not much help on troubleshooting. I believe the problem is one of the burner switches. What is the best way to test these burners?

[RegUS_PatOff]

I couldn't find the wiring diagram for the manual cooktop, but the other service manual mentions there's a heat sensor switch built inot the element, that closes when it's over 150F and turns on the "HOT" light if any of the sensor switches are closed.

Are any surface elements warm/hot ?  - then the control may be bad.

If none of them are warm/hot, then one (or more) of the sensors are stuck (bad)

You could try disconnecting the sensor plugs on each of the elements to see if it's one (or more) bad sensors.

 

 

[texasred]

it was a bad element thanks for the help