FRIgidaire GAS Gallery Dryer GLGR331AS4

[Tim M]

.

Funny this heated for a minute, Ignitor glowed, lit up didn't get hot. Ignitor shut down. Continued to burn, then shut off cool. Repeat.

Now (after playing around with the temperature select, ignitor glows and glows, but never lights.

Tim

[Tim M]

From looking around the web site I think it must be valve coils? Is there a way to positively test them?

What do they do?????

Tim

[Tim M]

Looking at this page:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/11/appliance-repair-revelation-burner.htm

coils test correctly.

4 to 5 tests 1371 ohms

1 to 2 tests 1439 ohms slightly high

1 to 3 tests 583 ohms

[Tim M]

OK after a break. It the glow plug glowed, it lit the flame, then both flame and plug went out. Glow plug glowed, again, lit the flame, ran 10 seconds and both out. This sure sounds like bad coils, but the multimeter checks seemed OK, so I have my doubts.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Gas Valve Coils are very intermittent.

Work when cold, open internally when warm.

$20 / set

[Tim M]

Well, on my way out the door I thought I'd try one more thing. When the ignitor was glowing away without the gas starting, I gave the coils a light tap with the handle of a screwdriver. The flame lit right up, and stayed on for half of a minute. So I'm off to buy some coils. Thanks.

So one coil is controlled by the light sensor and the other by the temperature? Is that right?

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=28611]Tim M[/user] wrote:

... So one coil is controlled by the light sensor and the other by the temperature? Is that right?

neither ... and it's a flame (heat) sensor.

One of the (2) Coils is a dual Coil

There's actually (3) coil windings

Booster, Secondary, Holding Coil.

or Main,  Assist,  Holding Coil

[Tim M]

That was great! Thank you. I'll be able to get a better handle on how this actually works and what's going on, rather than just replacing the bad part.

[Tim M]

OK, now I'm stuck. I replaced the coils as everyone suggested, though I was curious why they would test OK and still be bad.

So I put in the new coils, the thing fires up for a minute or less.

Start the cycle over, ignitor glows for over a minute, then no flame.

Give it a LIGHT whack with a screwdriver on top of the coils and it fires up for a minute or less and shuts off, no glow from ignitor either.

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=28611]Tim M[/user] wrote:

... no glow from ignitor either.

now it's something else

If youy could do some voltage pr resistance measurements.

Has this Dryer worked up till now or maybe been in storage for a while ?

GLGR331AS4 Wiring Diagram

[Tim M]

It's very new and they've been using it. Then the heat started to be intermittent.

What should I check for?

Is it starting with a whack significant, or does that just mean I've popped it enough to let the hold coil catch it without the booster coil being activated?

[RegUS_PatOff]

It could be the Flame (heat) Sensor Switch sticking in either mode.

If you cound do some measurements...

It should be normally closed unless HOT.

click on picture

[Tim M]

So what do I need to test?

Ignitor

Flame Sensor

High Limit thermostat?

Is the burner itself OK if it lights up once?

[Tim M]

Crossed replies with you.

I'll head to the sight with my computer, and test. Fortunately they have wireless with no password. Talk to you seen.

Thank you for your help.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Igniter should show some resistance ... maybe 100 OHMS to 400 OHMS depending on temperature.

The Flame Sensor & Hi-Limit Thermaostat switches should be closed.

[Tim M]

Flame Sensor 0hms

Ignitor 185 ohms

I have to look to find the thermostat

[Tim M]

high limit thermostat 0 ohms

Hmmm. Now what?

[RegUS_PatOff]

If you could check some voltages ...

[Tim M]

Getting 116V to the burner.

With the front off the air isn't getting sucked through the drum, could that trip something? But then this happened when it was assembled and running too.

What else to check for voltage?

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

[user=28611]Tim M[/user] wrote:

... no glow from ignitor either.

now it's something else

Tim M wrote:

Getting 116V to the burner.

With the front off the air isn't getting sucked through the drum, could that trip something?

so, does the Igniter glow now ?

It will trip after the flame's been on for a few seconds.

[Tim M]

Ignitor glows 75 seconds

flame for 30 seconds

off for 35 seconds

ignitor glows for 3 minutes and counting (still glowing)

a previous time it relit for a short period

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=28611]Tim M[/user] wrote:

ignitor glows for 3 minutes and counting (still glowing)

It shouldn't glow that long.. sounds again like a bad Flame Sensor Switch sticking closed.

(should sense the heat from the Igniter, then open)

 

[Tim M]

OK,

Fired it up. Ignitor glowed for ages.

Unplugged the flame sensor and the thing lit up.

Plugged the flame sensor back in and the flame went out shortly after.

A minute or so and the thing is glowing again.

Glows forever. Unplug sensor. Lights up 20 seconds or so. Then off.

Plug in again and it glows and glows etc.

[RegUS_PatOff]

bad Flame Sensor Switch

[Tim M]

Great. I've already ordered it and thank you!

So what could I have done differently to diagnose this correctly, or at least get help diagnosing it correctly the first time?

Is the resistance reading of the coils within the specified limits pretty surely means they are OK, or was it worth it to replace them even though they tested OK.

Should I put the old coils back in and return them/save them or just leave them in to be extra sure?