ge oven control model jsp40wow3ww

[dentron]

Got a replacement control different from original, old part number wb27k5306 new part wb27t10190 got board in but when wiring in clean lock motor no instruction for hook up the harness part number wb18t10123 .instruction may have removed package was open and no wiring info on stove .HELP

Charles

[RegUS_PatOff]

luckily WB18T10123 Harness is included

click on picture  $ 52.75 GE® imagination at work

 

 

http://applianceguru.com/forum1/17535.html

RegUS_PatOff wrote:

from another blog...

Ron Johnson wrote

( from http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Success__Conclusion-Appliances-1-T4940.html#4940 )

Take the instructions and the GE 6 pin wiring harness that is provided with the purchase of the Oven/Clock controller and throw them directly into the nearest garbage can!

Unplug the 6 pin plug from the old controller.

Move the white pin from it's END position into the OPEN pin position next to it. (Break off the plastic retainer covering the pins, use a very small screwdriver to release the pin. And simply plug it back into the proper hole. It will just snap into place. This is very easy so don't force it).

Reverse the positions of the Blue and Orange pins on this same 6 pin plug.

Plug it into the new controller. (This reverses the polarity on the door lock motor. If you don't do this you can't open the door to your oven until it reaches 250 degrees inside. Ha! but true!)

The Purple wire from the old controller connects to the top of the relay nearest the transformer. It had a purple dot on my new unit making it obvious.

The lone Yellow wire from the old controller attaches to the top of the only other relay. Mine had a yellow dot.

There are 3 connectors on these two relays. These two wires connect to the two connectors that are parallel to each other.

That third male plug on top of the relay closest the transformer and perpendicular to those last two connectors is your main power IN !

Plug the other multi-lead wiring harness that was provided with the controller into it. Doesn't matter which one. Just pick one that fits.

This harness has one connector that can ONLY connect to the controller.

The other black connectors go onto either of the two remaining connectors on this harness.

Remember if it don't fit don't force it!

Your almost finished!

Take the only remaining white lead and connect it to the last remaining open contact on the new controller.

This is neutral and attaches to the contact next to the 6 pin connector.

Finally you'll be left with two green wires terminating into a female plug.

This attaches to NOTHING.

It is unnecessary for the controller to work but cannot be removed.

You should simply tape the plug over so it can't make contact with anything it shouldn't.

Green is ground but should be treated respectfully.

If you cut and or spliced any wire you will be WRONG.

Just don't do it even though the only part of the instructions that comes with the controller says to cut and splice the sensor wires.

DON'T DO IT!

BINGO...you should be good to go!

Ron Johnson...

Remember from my directions above that the polarity needed to be reversed on the door latch motor! This picture was taken PRIOR to that action therefore the Blue & Orange connections are wrong. Simply reverse them from what's in the picture.

(now, was that so hard ?)  :headbang: