Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Peerless boiler w/ Johnson controls ign. module


KEWROCK

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello forum, We meet again. Hope eveyone had a nice holiday.

I have a Peerless Boiler with a Johnson Controls ignition module #G600AX-1. Tonight the igniter stopped working. When I openend the back panel to clean whatever soot or scale might be on the electrode I noticed when I swiped the wire toothbrush across it I did get very weak sparks. Almost static, not the nice hot quarter inch arcs I used to get. Ordinarily the gap between the electrode and the gas collector for the pilot(ground) is a quarter inch, I bent it in to roughly a sixteenth of an inch. Now I do get a constant spark, but it's so weak it can't light the pilot.

Is it a bad module or do electrodes or maybe the silicone lead stop conducting? The replacement parts for these two joined companies are two to three times more expensive than other boiler companies like Honeywell or Carrier. The silicone wire alone is $70, ignitor assy 175 and module 300. So I really just want to change the culprit. 

BTW I read the section stove and dryer ignitions before posting. If I connect a multimeter from the electrode connector on the module to ground should I get 15000 VAC? (Couldn't do yet, dead batteries)

  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

all contacts nice and tight and good burner ground to brain?

Posted

Yup, That's the first stuff I checked. I also checked spark intesity at the connector on bottom of the module where silicone lead attaches. it's the same, very weak slight spark at about a 16th inch from ground. That should rule out the lead and electrode I guess? could it be the transformer not feeding proper current to the module? It should be 24v. I can't check though, my multi's dead. but if that's the case the flame sensor shouldn't work, but it works fine. as soon as I hold a match to it, it opens the main jet and the boiler fires up for a cycle. It's got to be the module. I'd just hate to buy it then find out it was something stupid that I missed.

Posted

[user=27244]KEWROCK[/user] wrote:

... If I connect a multimeter from the electrode connector on the module to ground should I get 15000 VAC? ...

can't do that with a multimeter  :spaz:

check your private mail ...

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...