Gas Furnace Not Heating One Zone - Slant Fin GG-150 HDP

[Timboroni]

I have a SlantFin GG-150 HDP gas furnace with 5 (yes five) zones. One of the zones is having the following problem:  When the thermostat for Zone #1 calls for heat, and the water in the tank is not hot enough, the burner does not turn on, and thus, no heat. If any of the other zones call for heat, the burner heats the water in the tank, and heat will now go to Zone #1. The other 4 zones work fine.

Here are the component details:

Slant Fin GG-150 HDP gas burner

Honeywell Aquastat Relay Type L8148E (1 of these)

Honeywell Motorized Valve V8043E1012 (there are 5 of these)

Lux 1500 Programmable Thermostat (there are 5 of these too)

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!

[Cactus Bob]

there is a micro switch in each zone valve , when it fully opens it tripps this switch turning on the gas valve ( i know there are electronic controls , high /low limit switches ect ect ect , for the sake of this post humor me )  ...so the valve opens and the heating of the water starts ........ so you have a bad micro switch or a broken wire from that(#1) zone valve . i dont  know anymore what numbers on the valve connections control that but look for wires that go from valve to valve and then to the boiler  one my be broken . other wise you need a zone valve   .. ps:....you might try just removeing the cover and look at the switch the valve may be a little stuck and open its just not reaching the switch , a nuge from a well placed screwdriver might free up the valve

[RegUS_PatOff]

thanks to [user=33613]Cactus Bob[/user] for the answer, here's the

Honeywell Motorized Valve V8043E1012 Tech Sheets

[Timboroni]

Thanks for the replies. Let me make sure I've got this right:

On page 6 of the Tech Sheet, the middle set of diagrams show a 5-zone system. Since I have a V8043E, I'm looking at the last two control diagrams on the right. According to those, my problem probably lies with one of the two red wires that connect to the burner and/or circulator circuit.

Also, is there a way to test the device with a meter?

 

[Timboroni]

OK - I see where the problem is. I saw that there's a gear with a little metal piece sticking out that pushes a button on a switch that turns on the burner. I pushed the switch with a screw driver and was able to get the burner going. I then turned the thermostat up, and while the button was pressed by the gear lever, I tapped on the switch and the burner went on. When I went to put the cover back on it went off. It appears that the switch is the problem. Can I just change that piece? It looks like it is being held in place by a very small screw.

On the first page of the Tech Sheet it mentions an "auxiliary switch" - is that the one? If I were to remove the switch so I could get a new one, will it cause a problem with it not being there when the thermostat calls for heat (like, will the gear piece go too far, etc.).

Thanks for your help!

[Cactus Bob]

i dont think it matters if the switch is there , that said i have never removed a switch and cycled the valve to see what it would do . its rare for a switch failure , more offten its that the valve is not opening far enough to trip the switch . somrtimes its the packing in the valve and others is a buildup inside the valve . if it is the switch , there easy to get its just a micro switch , there in everthing from microwaves to dishwashers . just make sure you use the COM and the N.O. connections on the new switch ...... me i would never mess with one , just change the valve , i dont want to be back in a week because it did not work

[Timboroni]

Since I'm here every day I'll try the switch first.  I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks for your help!

[Timboroni]

Well, it took me a while to find the right part, then it took a while to get delivered, and then it took me a while to install the part (thank God it's been warm here in the North East!)

I found a Honeywell Microswitch that replaces the one on the motorized valve. The part cost $2.69, but the shipping and handling was over $14!! (It was still cheaper than buying a new valve!) I removed the old switch, fiddled with the new switch until it looked like the original (trimmed the length of the connectors, drilled a hole in one to hook the wire through - that kind of stuff), reconnected the switch, turned on the heat and viola' - everything works the way it is supposed to.

Thanks Cactus Bob for your assistance! (and RegUS_PatOff, who seems to ALWAYS be online helping out!)

[Timboroni]

For the record, the micro switch replacement was:

Honeywell Microswitch

Part # V7-1C17D8