Dayton hanging furannce schematic

[JJ 109]

I am installing a used Dayton hanging furnace Model 4E454A. It has several unhooked wires and Im not clear where they go. Its not even clear where the thermostat wires go. Does any one have a schematic, or anything close?

Thanx

[Cactus Bob]

i cant find anything on that model , but GRANGERS  sells DAYTON  heaters  there is where i would start

[JJ 109]

OK, This is the control on the unit. I jumped 24v off the transformer to control (5&6) and put 110 to the fan. For some reason it would ignite then go off in a few sceonds. see video below. Now sure what causes this since I bypassed all the sensors. Im just trying to verify it works.

http://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/photos/S8600F-2T.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCclKPpOrPw

What would make it cycle on/off?

[ACtechGUY]

Judging by your video , I would guess that maybe the gas pressure is too high or there is air in the line with the gas. What is happening is the module sparks and the pilot gas flows, then the spark ignites the pilot flame. The main gas valve now opens and the main flame ignites . But what is happening is the ignition is so violent that it momentarily pushes the pilot flame away from the flame sensing rod. The main burner is then shut down and the cycle restarts.

I would break open the union before the heater and purge the line for a while. If there is air mixed in with the gas something like this will happen. The next step is reducing the gas pressure at the gas valve.

-----Just as a side note , I did notice that the module sparked for way longer than it would if everything was right with the gas. A typical spark time is maybe a second, most of the time less.

???You never mentioned if you had natural gas or propane to this heater. It is a big problem if it has nat. gas jets installed and you are running propane. There will be WAY too much gas provided to the burners.

** Almost all dayton unit heaters have a wiring schematic on the panel that covers the control section.

[JJ 109]

I just installed it with 25 feet of 3/8 copper so its likely full of air. It is natural gas. Ill double check to make sure its CNG but almost positive it is. I was also thinking the line may be to small, but I sure like the air theory a lot better. Its also important to realize i put 24v right to the module because I still have a wiring issue as well.

[ACtechGUY]

Close up Digital photos of control section will be helpful. I can't seem to get any diagrams from the GRAINGER.com website(THEY ARE DAYTON). IT shouldn't be too difficult.. unit heaters are pretty basic.

30,000 btu heater might just slip by with 3/8 tubing. most heaters up to 100,000 btu are 1/2" pipe.

[JJ 109]

I have not tried purging line yet, i'll try later tonight.  I will feel a lot beter if I can make it run by applying 24v to the contoller (pin 5 & 6) and 110v to the fan.

 I also sent grainger an email asking for a schematic.  Hopefully they will help.  Wiring is a mess it seems. 

Here are some pics of the components.  I will explain issues a bit later.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/jwooky1

 

[RegUS_PatOff]

Honeywell S8600

[JJ 109]

Grainger came through with a schematic. I wired up per schematic and still no luck. I decided to by pass the fan timer and it fired up. The cycling on/off that it was doing when I applied 24 v to the controler also stopped(still don't get why that didn't work). So now, I guess I need a timer. Is the only purpose of this to allow the burner to ignite before the fan starts ? Itseems to fire up fine with fan on.

[ACtechGUY]

The part you are looking for is called a 'thermal time delay relay'. What that does is delay the fan coming on so the heat exchanger can heat up and does not blow cold air on you at first.

Maybe your cycling on and off problem went away because all the air got worked out the line.