Need wiring diagram

[Budget Appliance Repair]

GE Refrig

Mod# TBF17SLC

Ser# LL642007

Manufactured June 1970 or ?1982?

Found a June 16, 1970 LIFE Magazine on Google that has the

TBF17SL advertised and looks like the one I'm working on.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Come on guys, 53 views and no one has answered????

Just a wiring diagram would do....... I know it's an old one and maybe not available anywhere but please at least tell me that.

Thanks,

[appl.tech.29501]

I'm still trying to find one, we get those units in fairly frequently for refurbish.

Are there specific wires your trying to figure out?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

[user=27301]appl.tech.29501[/user] wrote:

I'm still trying to find one, we get those units in fairly frequently for refurbish.

Are there specific wires your trying to figure out?

I pretty much condemned it and advised the property management company to replace it because of the age and rusted condition.

But, I would still like to see a wiring diagram so I can possible know what was going on.

When I arrived the freezer temp was around 28 degrees and the refrig was around 48 degrees and evaporator fan wasn't running so figured that was the problem or possibly the evap fan runs to defrost bi-metal and it wasn't cold enough. After poking around and checking the basics all of a sudden evap fan is running.

Remove evap cover and had good frost pattern check evap fan continuity (around 60 ohms - OK) but only getting like 48-50 volts to evap fan so check bi-metal and it is closed defrost worked ok and bi-metal opened. Turned it back out of defrost and compressor started and evaporator started frosting real quickly but evap fan didn't come back on and only getting the 50 volts again.

Put it all back together and had tenants put all the food back in freezer and by the time I had it back together and getting ready to leave the fan was running again.

There's only one door switch in the refrig section and it operates the light and one door switch in the freezer which when pulled out and tested showed 110 volts across it when open and 0 volts when closed when the fan wasn't working. When the fan started working again opening and closing the freezer door switch turned the evap fan on/off.

I figure there has to be a bad wire somewhere and to find that could take a lot of time and again just not worth putting into a 40 year old refrig that is starting to rust all around the front door area.

[appl.tech.29501]

I'll continue looking for a diagram. You pretty much have it figured out though. If there was only one bi~metal on the evap. Then I agree either the hot from the door switch or the neutral to to the fan is bad. Did that paricular model have the timer behind the kick plate? Have seen several of those with wiring issues in that area.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

[user=27301]appl.tech.29501[/user] wrote:

I'll continue looking for a diagram. You pretty much have it figured out though. If there was only one bi~metal on the evap. Then I agree either the hot from the door switch or the neutral to to the fan is bad. Did that paricular model have the timer behind the kick plate? Have seen several of those with wiring issues in that area.

Only one bi-metal was found and this one isn't actually on the evaporator like you would normally see.  It is attached with a strap to the metal drain pan the evaporator sits in just in front of the evaporator.

I don't believe it could be the neutral since I was getting the 40-50 volts to ground or neutral and the neutral to the fan came directly from the neutral side of the defrost heater which worked fine.

Yes, it has the timer just behind the kickplate. It looked to be bigger and bulkier then the standard defrost timers and seemed like a lot of wires attached to it and the knob didn't really turn the timer very well, (like it was kind of loose from the shaft it turns and had to put sideways pressure to make it actually turn the timer and advance into and out of defrost).

There is a good chance that is where the problem is but with as much lint that was packed into the condenser coils it probably would have taken at least another hour or two of my time just to get it all out.   Pulled hand fulls just from the front area and had a pile about a foot around and 6 inches or so tall, (probably 40 years worth of buildup!!!!!!!).

[appl.tech.29501]

Yep, I'm very familiar with the unit your talking about, I'll continue looking for a diagram. Those are well built units...rarely ever develope a sealed system problem. Usually people just get tires of looking at them. Common failures are the defrost timer, bi~metal and evap motor occassionaly, and as your finding bad wiring due to rodents or heat and time causing the wiring to become brittle.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Thanks for the assist Appl.tech.29501.

No hurry, but if you happen to come across the wiring diagram I would like to see it, just for my edumacation.