Gas Oven

[Tuco]

I'm tring to order an Oven Ignitor, for this stove. I may be one digit off the model number.

The oven is running on the cool side (275) when set at 350*. The custumer has raw cookies to prove it.The ERC seems to work fine. Pre heat feature seems to work ( beeps) but still cold/cooler then setting .

Should I check anything else other then the oven igniter?

Also can't find the igniter on RC.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I'm tring to order an Oven Ignitor, for this stove. I may be one digit off the model number.

So you have a two problems with this range: a stove burner problem and an oven temperature problem?

Or is everything in the oven?

[Tuco]

The oven only.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

How do you know you need the ignitor? Have you checked the current draw?

How is the temperature being measured? Did you know that there's a ±35F adjustment procedure at the ERC?

[Tuco]

No. Wasn't aware of ERC adjestment.

I put my amprobe around the red wire of the oven ingniter, was not able to read a steady amps.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The variation could be from how you were holding the instrument relative to the wire. More important that the variation, though, is the actual current draw measurement. Do you remember what it was?

The owner's manual for the range will have the procedure for adjusting the temperature.

Again, how was the oven temperature measured: type of instrument, placement in the oven, how many readings were averaged to arrive at the temperature-- getting an accurate oven temperature is not a trivial; it's not difficult, but it it time consuming and requires attention to detail.

[Tuco]

I was never able to get an amp reading above 2.0. I tried sevel differnt ways with the wire, even the orange wire, when I was uncertain with the readings of the red wire to the oven igniter while the ERC was set at 350 *F. The oven does "light off"

The custumer has a chessy grocery store themometer, and was complaining about "doughy" cookies. She bakes alot so I beleive her.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Well, it turns out there's a very good reason you never read above 2 amps-- because this isn't a hot surface ignitor which operates on the current draw principle! This is the infamous direct spark ignition (DSI) system. The ignitor sends a spark to the burner tub to ignite the gas. In a hot surface ignition system, the gas gushes out of the tube, hits the glowing hot ignitor surface and bursts into flame-- totally different principle.

This is a real temperamental and finicky system. There a couple things that can cause the burner to not re-ignite. Do you know if the burner tube has been changed? They modified the tube to facilitate more reliable ignition. Read more==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/01/whirlpool-30-gas-self-cleaning-freestanding-range-with-direct-spark-ignition-dsi-that-wont-bake/

Three more pointers on this page==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2007/02/13/whirlpool-direct-spark-ignition-range-wont-stay-lit/

[kdog]

This range doesn't seem to have an ignitor that can be tested with an ammeter, this unit has direct spark ignition - I recall issues with those being display boards, and burners that would warp out of shape. It's important to note that the ignitor is available as a burner/ignitor ass'y. Try to determine if power is being lost at the control - they have 2 - 24 vdc coils for the burner. Can you locate tech sheet on it as it lists a series of tests to perform

Click on Pic

[Tuco]

Thanks! Now I see the light!

[RegUS_PatOff]

has this Oven worked OK up until now at this location ?

has there been any House Electrical work done lately ?

Did we find the correct model number ?

[Tuco]

Yes the oven has worked at this location, not been moved.

I didn't check the house voltage(probably always will from now on). ERC works fine, no codes, clock works too.

No new modle number yet.

Thanks Samuria, Kdog, and Reg