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Frigidaire Window Airconditioner Unit - Inop


Toranaga

Recommended Posts

Posted

Guys, I need some advice. Got one of those "buddy" jobs and don't quite know where to start. My friend has a heating and cooling window unit bought from Lowe's last November. I am guessing it is the model number listed above, or very similar, I have not sen the machine yet and he has no paperwork. (its in a rental unit). Anyway, the unit is completely dead, no heat, no cool, no lights. I suspect and electrical problem and will approach it from that direction as I don't do CFC work. Here's my train of thought

1. Check the breakers, fuses and outlet.

2. Check the power cord and terminal for VAC

3. Check the PCB for signs of a blow up.

4. swithches/ touchpad etc.

5. ???

I understand how compressors work, but I'm not qualified to replace one.

Any advice?

Normally wouldn't take this job, but its for a real friend - the kind that helps you hide the body.

T.

  • Replies 23
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  • Last Reply
Posted

Thanks Reg, Wiring diagram is pretty simple. How does the overload relay work? If it trips, can it reset?

T.

Posted

How does the overload relay work?

looks like a standard Compressor overload . . (automatic)

but would only control the Compressor

Posted

Well then barring any house wiring problems, I'm likely looking at a bad board, huh?

Posted

Well then barring any house wiring problems,

Pretty common issue with portable A/C units, they're a big power draw - have them try another outlet that is known good before you head out

Posted

Good advice, Kdog. Thanks.

Posted

Most of those units have a reset on the power cord....pretty common for the to go bad....have changed a tone of them....verify voltage at the power board.

Posted

Most of those units have a reset on the power cord....pretty common for the to go bad....have changed a tone of them....verify voltage at the power board.

Will do, thanks!

Posted

Cords good. Outlets good. Correct model number is LRA12HZT2. How much voltage at the touch panel? I get 120 at RY4, P9, and RY6/4. Nothing at RY7/3 which leads to the compressor. No activity at the display board. What next?

Posted

Ok. The on off button is on a pcb. I get continuity when I press the button. But it shuts off when I release ot. Shouldn't it stay on till I press it again?

Posted

I get 120 at RY4, P9, and RY6/4.

Should have 120 at RY6-4(hot) and P8(neutral), if you have that and no activity, you have a failed PCB - compressor failure does not affect fans/display eyc.

Posted

Summary:

The main board gets voltage 120 VAC. The Display board gets about 7 VAC through a ribbon. But does not respond to user input. I see no evidence of any bad solder joints or burns on the display board at all. I could use a little help. Thanks. One more wierd thing I noticed. Although the cord delivers power tot he unit, the "test" button doesn't seem to have any effect. i press it and the unit still gets power. Hit reset and nothing changes.

T.

Posted

The main board gets voltage 120 VAC.

Thats the only job of the powercord, whether the GFCI part is functional or not - you need to be sure the voltage is measured at those pins (R6-4 and P8), if it is there, it means that something is not switching within the PCB and it is likely FUBAR

Posted

Thanks Kdog. That's about what I thought. I was torn up about the fact that there is some voltage getting to the smaller display board - about 7.2 VAC. I'm gonna recommend replacing the cord too, just for safety, I guess.

Posted

New twist. The label calls for 230 volts but there is

only 120 at the outlet. Checked breakers. All good.

Posted

only 120 at the outlet.

Yes, the document that Reg posted shows unit is 230v, needs to be a double breaker - shut them both off and on again as one side may be tripped

Posted

Right. Put the meter on every breaker. 120 on all. 120 at the wall. 120 at the board 240 NOWHERE. What am I missing?

Posted

One breaker has to come from the RED side of the box and the other from the BLACK side to get the 240

Posted

240 NOWHERE.

Try and reset the Main (100 A) breaker - that should affect mant other items in the home though if it were tripped

Posted

No red side. Two blacks. Old house. All breakers have power. DANG! Even the plugs only wired for 120!

Posted

Has this unit ever worked ??

Posted

has this A/C worked at this location up till now ?

Is this a standard 240v Wall Outlet ?

post picture of Wall Outlet and test points ?

Posted

I have been called out to New dryers in older homes that don't work to find out they only have a 60A service that cannot support a double 240v breaker, oddly enough they were always replacing old gas dryers

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