carrier central a/c model 50hs036301aa

[dojustly]

We got home from a weekend camping, desperately needing a little a/c, and what we got was a very warm house, and an outside unit screaming. I need to know if there are user replacable bearings in the fan motor, or willi need to replace the motor. Or perform some other type of repair and/or check.

Any ideas?

[RegUS_PatOff]

sounds like a Fan Motor replacement

may need the part number on the Fan Motor

If the Fan was still running at near normal speed,

the unit should still cool

[ACtechGUY]

I am assuming you think the motor is bad because it is not turning?? Or is it turning? You never said. I can tell you that if the Condenser fan motor is not operating and the unit does not have a high pressure cutout switch, then the compressor WILL make a loud whining noise due to over pressure .

If the motor is not turning the first thing you need to check is the capacitor. if it is bad, the motor will not run and compressor overheats.

In the control cabinet of the unit you will see a round or oval silver device with lots of wires on top. The top should be totally flat . If not It is bad and need to be replaced.

If it is just the fan motor that is failing.. Simply replace it. It is not repairable. I recommend getting the carrier OEM motor if possible, but any generic 1025 1/4hp motor will work as long as it fits.

[jb8103]

Captain Safety here.

You're dealing with 230 volts.

Before opening the cabinet, find the service disconnect and pull it, or switch to off. Even so, mind that capacitor - it stores electricity and will give you quite a jolt even with the system turned off.

[applianceman18007260692]

Outside Condenser Blues

[dojustly]

actechguy. Sorry. Fan was turning, but almost stalling at times. That is when the "scream" happened. Made me think of bearings right away. Once I opened it all up, I could move the fan shaft out of the motor about .100, maybe .150. Fan spins freely by hand.

[dojustly]

regus_patoff,

I haven't been able to find a match for fan motor. To that end, I haven't found info on the model of my a/c unit, either.

Model number is above. Fan motor has 5kcp39fg r560 s on the label. GE Motors.1100rpm. .25HP.

Canyou help?

[RegUS_PatOff]

this came up as a replacement

compare the specs

click on picture $ 75

and matching Capacitor

click on picture $ 5.55

[dojustly]

regus_patoff:

I don't have the motor with me... the referenced motor specifies that it is a stud mount type. The old one was held around the body with an adjusting bolt at 6:00.

Will this motor be able to be mounted that way?

Unfortunately, I didn't check the OD of the old motor, so I don't know if 5.625" is close enough to work.

Any way to find out the OD of the old one, without having it in my hands?

[ACtechGUY]

You need a carrier part number # HC39AE209 for the condenser fan motor . I have no specs on the motor other than 1100 rpm and 1/4 hp 230 volt

But the one image I see of the motor jives with what I have seen in the field.I have never seen a Carrier unit with stud mount, and the images I see for sale indices no studs . But I have not seen them all, I am sure .............

[dojustly]

I have gotten the motor and new capacitor!

The new cap has 2 4-prong connectors, and the old cap had 3...center position 4-prong, 2 outside positions both 2-prong.

I know where the old connections went, but don't know how to modify for the new cap.

Any help?

[RegUS_PatOff]

cap part number ?

Motor part number ?

[dojustly]

Dayton motor and Cap you referenced above, from Grainger.

For the old parts, motor #'s above at top of thread, no markings on old cap.

[ACtechGUY]

The capacitor in the unit is a duel rating capacitor . It serves the fan motor and the compressor. You should get another duel capacitor. that would be the easiest thing to do. then simply transfer wire for wire to the new capacitor.

Also the top of the capacitor will have a H ,C , and F Or HERM, COM And FAN printed or stamped next to each terminal set. It is there , just hard to see sometimes.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... You should get another duel capacitor. that would be the easiest thing to do

... the top of the capacitor will have a H ,C , and F Or HERM, COM And FAN printed or stamped next to each terminal set. It is there , just hard to see sometimes.

1) yes, but sometimes expensive ...

2) yes, look at the "old" Cap ... the new Cap would take the place of one of the "Com" and "Fan"

There's actually only (2) connections on the "new" Cap

[dojustly]

Thanks for the schematics.

Based on those, here's what I did.

I decided to attach the brown & yellow wires from the fan motor to the new 2-prong capacitor (and the black wire to the spot in the control board where the old motor attached.)

I left the other 2 yellow wires and the 2 blue wires attached where they were on the old capacitor.

I then ran a jumper wire from the 2 yellow on the old cap, to the yellow on the new cap. I figured there needed to be some way for the circuit to be completed while adding a second cap into the system.

Secured all wires back with wire-ties, put covers back on, and turned on the power.

The circulating fan came on right away, but the condenser fan didn't.

That's when I came in to write this post. 2 minutes went by and my son came in and said the fan had come on.

Sure enough!

It's been 6 days, and we've closed up the house! Cool air does seem to be circulating, so that's a positive sign!

Here's lifting up positive karma to the A/C spirits, and I'll update all either way a little later,

If anyone recognizes that I've done something that I shouldn't've, and may cause irrepairable harm , please shout!

[RegUS_PatOff]

how many and what color wires on the new Motor ?

If it's 3 wires

Black to Black

Yellow to C (one side of Capacitor) and to C Yellow on the old Capacitor

Brown to the other side of new Capacitor

[dojustly]

There are 4 wires on the new motor.

Black, Brown, Yellow, Brown with white stripe.

The label on the motor gave an alternate 3-wire hook up, leaving the brown/white wire out of the equation.

The A/C worked all night, and there seems to be no noises, smells, heat, etc. anywhere that I could detect.

Thanks for all the help with this repair!

[ACtechGUY]

From what you described you hooked up everything exactly right. What you saw was the blower coming on, but upon power up the compressor is delayed 5 minutes .

Here is the sequence of operation for your unit:

Sequence of operation

When power is supplied to unit, the transformer (TRAN) is

energized.

On units with crankcase heater, heater is also energized.

Cooling — With the thermostat subbase in the cooling position, and when the space temperature comes within 2° F

of the cooling set point, the thermostat makes circuit R-O.

This energizes the reversing valve solenoid (RVS) and places

the unit in standby condition for cooling.

As the space temperature continues to rise, the second

stage of the thermostat makes, closing circuit R-Y. When

compressor time delay (5 ± 2 minutes) is completed, a circuit is made to contactor ©, starting the compressor (COMP)

and outdoor-fan motor (OFM). Circuit R-G is made at the

same time, energizing the indoor-fan relay (IFR) and starting the indoor-fan motor (IFM) after a 1-second delay.

When the thermostat is satisfied, contacts open, deenergizing C. The COMP and OFM stop, and the IFM stops

after a short time delay.

Heating — On a call for heat, thermostat makes circuits

R-Y and R-G.

When compressor time delay (5 ± 2 minutes) is completed, a circuit is made to C, starting COMP and OFM.

Circuit R-G also is completed, energizing IFR and starting

IFM after a 1-second delay.

Should room temperature continue to fall, circuit R-W is

made through second-stage thermostat bulb. If optional electric heat package is used, a relay is energized, bringing on

first bank of supplemental electric heat. When thermostat

is satisfied, contacts open, deenergizing contactor and relay; motors and heaters deenergize. The IFM may be controlled by a time-delay relay that keeps the fan on for

30 seconds.

Defrost — Defrost board (DB) is a time and temperature

control, which includes a field-selectable time period between checks for defrost (30, 50, and 90 minutes). Electronic timer and defrost cycle start only when contactor is

energized and defrost thermostat (DFT) is closed.

Defrost mode is identical to cooling mode, except outdoorfan motor stops and a bank of optional electric heat turns

on to warm air supplying the conditioned space.