Cruisair Heat Pump WJAH12

[jb8103]

Compressor was kicking out after 3 or 4 seconds. Gauges showed 100 lbs both sides at 75 degrees. R22 system, takes 1 lb 5 oz. Water-cooled condenser. This morning I recovered 6.4 oz, pumping down to zero but not into a vacuum. No liquid at all through sight glass. Weighed in proper charge.

Compressor still kicking out after 3 or 4 seconds. I have no schematics as of yet, the installation manual just has drawings showing where to plug in to thermostat and AC power. It's a 120 VAC system.

Boat has two of these things, the other one is running but icing up at the receiver.

[ACtechGUY]

From what you describe I doubt the compressor is actually running.It is probably not starting. What you are describing is a compressor shutting down on internal thermal overload in a locked rotor condition.

Here are couple of things to check for.

#1 check all wiring to compressor for damage( like burnt connections at the compressor itself) . check contact points of compressor contactor or relay for high resistance indicating bad contacts.

#2 check start (or PTC device(resistance)) and run capacitors for correct values with capacitor tester

# 3 verify locked rotor condition by taking an amp reading while compressor is trying to start. Not sure what locked rotor is on a small compressor like this but I would guess 20 to 30 amps.

If all wiring and start / run componets are ok that leaves locked compressor. Very likely if compressor was running on a low refrigerant for an extended time.

[ACtechGUY]

Your model number is wrong. It should be WFAH12 .. The wfah indicates it is controled by a rotary switch. no such thing as WJAH or so it appears.

Here is a link to a scanned copy of a manual. Check out figure 18 for a diagram

[RegUS_PatOff]

valid model number

WJAH12 c.1988

I can't find any service info. . .

[jb8103]

From what you describe I doubt the compressor is actually running.It is probably not starting. What you are describing is a compressor shutting down on internal thermal overload in a locked rotor condition.

Here are couple of things to check for.

#1 check all wiring to compressor for damage( like burnt connections at the compressor itself) . check contact points of compressor contactor or relay for high resistance indicating bad contacts.

#2 check start (or PTC device(resistance)) and run capacitors for correct values with capacitor tester

# 3 verify locked rotor condition by taking an amp reading while compressor is trying to start. Not sure what locked rotor is on a small compressor like this but I would guess 20 to 30 amps.

If all wiring and start / run componets are ok that leaves locked compressor. Very likely if compressor was running on a low refrigerant for an extended time.

Low refrigerant also meaning low oil? I will double check all points tomorrow, owner is using the boat right now.

[ACtechGUY]

Now that is obsolete when there is only 2 references to a unit on the whole internet...................

The link I posted has a lot of good info in it that very likely applies to the model you have. this type of system does not change much over the years. Especially in regards to charging the system.

Low refrigerant also meaning low oil?

Not always. Even the worst refrigerant leaks rarely let enough oil get away to cause a problem.

The issue is with a constantly overheated compressor. No cool gas to cool the compressor for an extended time ( like weeks to months) often results in some sort of compressor failure.

Now in regards to your other unit with icing at the receiver..... That could be an indication of low charge as well. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the evaporator coil and blower wheel for excessive dirt buildup.