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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Look at the pictures I posted. There is a pic of the top. Find any essex LP valves that look like the one pictured? Thanks

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Posted

I do not have that one.

Why not just use a newer style valve?

Posted

I can convert the natural gas valve. All I need to do is take the spring out of the 3.5" valve and put the spring from my 10" valve in it and then set the adjusting screw and use a manometer. Pretty easy. The heater was made for LP. All I want to do is put a valve in that works and came in the unit. Youtube. What a great tool. They even show how to make your own manometer. Now I can use the valve with a high or low setting. Life is good!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted (edited)

Well post some pictures of the conversion so that future folks can see them.

Edited by applianceman18007260692
Posted

OK Heres the deal. I bought the essex natural gas valve. Looks like the one I have. The new valve has in and out on opposite sides the old valve was 90 degrees. Not a big deal, put a 90 in and had to reduced it to 3/8. Took the old spring and put it in the new valve, and made a manometer. Put the burner unit on the bench rigged up the gas and fired it off. Unit was very close to 10" w/c. Adjusted it and shut it down. Put the burner in the heater housing and pipe the gas. I used 1/2 black iron. I put my union and my trap and gas valve in, hook up the gas. I lite the pilot, turned up the thermostat and waited. 30 seconds later the burner lights. A couple of minutes later the fan kicks in. Not too bad for never doing this before. My advice, always read about what you are planning on doing. Ask questions, and read some more.

Posted

Way to git her did! :rocker:

Posted

I do have one question. I did a soap test. Don't see any leaks. If I put my nose down by the valve area of the pilot valve/line. I can smell a little gas when it is running. Good bad? Had the unit running for about 2 hours . No problems

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Most of the aftermarket valves come with the correct lp conversion kit included. THE KITS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE between models or manufacturers, and you'll need a reliable manometer to verify the correct pressure setting. If the original valve had corrosion inside, it just isnt safe to "rebuild" or swap parts. GAMA (Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association)states all valves with moisture damage, or that have been flooded are NO GOOD!

The robershaw unit that Grand-master Funk showed has a 90 degree outlet and meets most of your specs (one stage only) and should also come with a proper LP conv kit.

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