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    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
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      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
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Recommended Posts

Posted

I live in Florida.

My house was built in 2001.

I have Bryant Air Handler.

I can force the blower to blow, using the thermostat fan control,

But the air handler will not start the outside compressor.

I noticed this capacitor: Dietektrol VI HC91CA010D in the air handler,

could that need replacement?

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  • applianceman18007260692

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  • Shootist

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  • Bullstok

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  • jumptrout

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Posted

No model number. But the first thing I would do is check the contacts on the outside unit. Carefully - there's 240 VAC out there.

Posted

Since the thermostat will operate the blower fan in the ON position,the transformer,fan motor and fan capacitor are OK.

Set the unit for COOL.

Remove the access panel to the condenser.

Use your volt meter to verify 220 volts at the incoming power side of the contactor.

If voltage is good there,

Use your volt meter to check the low voltage terminals on the high voltage contactor. These terminals are on the side of the contactor and probably YELLOW and BLUE in color.

If not voltage there you may be low on refrigerant and the controls are locked out on the low pressure switch.

If you do have high voltage and low voltage at the contactor,the contactor is stuck open or the terminals have ants in them.

Posted (edited)

Or the compressor has open winding issues, loose or corroded terminals either at contactor or at compressor junction, a break in wire(s) from contactor to compressor, or compressor is locked out on overheat temporarily.

On second thought: First it would be easier to know for sure if the outside FAN is working or not. That would rule out a lot of electrical issues. I just assumed from ur first post...

Edited by Bullstok
Posted

The air handler doesn't control the condensing unit; the thermostat does.

If nothing happens when you set the system to cool but the blower will run if you switch the fan switch to "on", you may have a thermostat problem. If the thermostat is digital, replace the batteries first thing. After that, pop the front off the thermostat and jump out "R" and "Y". If the outdoor unit runs then replace the thermostat.

Posted (edited)

I put together a generic page with few thangs you can check on any outside unit their will be a capacitor; there is a compressor, a fan, and a magnetic contactor. Don't check anything without first making sure no power is going to the unit. In my neck of the woods we require a yank out box or a breaker to be mounted within 3 feet of the outside unit. MAKE SURE the power is off. If it is raining or water puddled around the unit wait till dryer conditions. Remove any antbeds and weeds from around the unit. Look for wasp nests in the yank out. Look for crispy critters in the contator, swollen capacitor or open solenoid on the contactor. Dogs can chew up those small wires to the outside unit and weedeaters also can play havoc on then tiny wires. You have 24 volts because you can manually make the fan motor come on so you need to make sure 24 volts is getting out to the unit. Note when you kill power to the unit outside that does not kill the 24 volts going out there to the unit.

Edited by applianceman18007260692

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