Whirlpool Dishwasher GU1200XTLSO

[winenotwhine]

I posted this on the regular forum but I'm reposting it here now that I'm getting to know my way around your website.

Anyway, I'm the guy who needed a new heating element. I ordered one but in the meantime I pulled a good element out of the exact same Whirlpool model. This solved the problems for one wash. Then, instead of stalling at 60 minutes, it stalls at 46 minutes--keeps washing with the "sensing" and "water heating" lights on and never ticks down. I checked this element with my meter--it is good.Plus the steam pours out when you open the door.

I saw a service bulletin from Whirlpool saying that incoming voltage above 125 volts may damage the control and that they recommend some part more tolerant of electricity at the upper limit. I tested my voltage at the outlet. It's exactly 125 volts. Any thoughts?

Tks .

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

It's not only high voltage, but also distortion and noise on the power line that can cause the control board to act flakey. Unfortunately, you'll also need to install the revised control board:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1060952

Yet another illustration of the 5th Law of Appliance Repair.

[winenotwhine]

Let me be sure I understand. I have a Whirlpool dishwasher with low usage hours that works perfect at work. I take it home--the heating element goes bad, I need a new control board plus some voltage regulator device.

So, given that the only difference between my work place and home is that I have higher voltage, is it somewhat safe to say that the machine should work right once I get 110 volts incoming power, a new control board and the new element?

There aren't even cobwebs hanging off the bottom of the washer--It really looks new from all angles.

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The problem is an inherent design weakness in the control board. According to the information from Whirlpool, if you have a a clean voltage supply that's less than 125 volts, that control board should work fine. Not sure what else I can tell you.

[Pegi]

This service pointer from Whirlpool does include your model number....

[winenotwhine]

Can I test the control board to be sure this is the problem? Alternatively, can I test other components that might be causing it to get stuck half way through the wash?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Testing control boards is the bane of every appliance tech. On some appliances, for limited models, the manufacturer makes a testing harness available for purchase. Sadly, this is the exception, not the rule. So, most of the time, we "prove" a board is bad by deduction: by testing all the reasonably involved peripheral components and the power supply to the board itself.

If I were on the job, I'd use my Fluke 43 Power Quality Analyzer to get a very clear picture of the noise and garbage on the power supply. Taken together with the service bulletin, this might form the basis for concluding that I need the upgraded board.

Absent the Fluke 43, your best course of action is to replace the board after having done your due diligence checks. If you purchase the board here and the new board doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a refund, less shipping.

[winenotwhine]

Thanks--I'll get the new control board and see what happens.