Kenmore gas dryer

[Award]

2001 Kenmore Gas Dryer Model 110.72912100

Runs fine as long as you hold in the push to start button.

Replaced with new button, did not solve problem

Door switch working ok, heating works ok, drum rotates as it should.

If it weren't 10 degrees F I would use a clothes line.

[Pegi]

Dott Whirlpool dryer, no heat or motor relays or even heat control board that I can see, about the only thing that would cause this is a bad motor...

[TerrysApplianceRepair]

Need a wiring diagram to be certain but is likely the timer.

[Pegi]

Here is your Wiring Diagram....

[Award]

Thank you very much.  I'll tear back into it.  Sure wish I had known about this site years ago.  It's one of the very best.

[Award]

I have exposed the timer and observed its shaft turning while I held the Push-to-Start button in.

Not sure what else to check on that part, so what next?

[Mad Mac]

Gas "DOTT" dryer - older model with the "Soft Heat" board.

Looking at Pegi's wiring diagrams, only thing I can see that would cause this is the switch on the motor. If contacts 5M and 6M are faulty, the motor won't get a neutral when the button is released.

[Award]

How do I go about checking the switch 5M-6M?

[Mad Mac]

Probably the simplest way is to jump around it - piece of wire with alligator clips is sufficient. Do this purely for testing purposes, NOT as a fix. I believe this switch is not available separately from the motor, but will stand corrected if necessary.....

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Finally back to working on the dryer.  I assume (not a good thing to do) that you get to the motor by taking off the toe panel.  If this is true, how is the appropriate way to get the toe panel off?  If this is not true, how do I get to the motor?

[Pegi]

This will help you take the dryer apart...dryer was made by Whirlpool

[Award]

Drum is out and I am looking at the motor.  The wire colors don't appear to agree with the wiring diagram.  Going from the wiring harness to the plastic connector by the motor I have BL, GRN-YLW, RED-WH AND BLK.  The blue from the connector goes to the belt switch, then to the motor.  Going to the motor from the connector are purple and ORG-WH.  I do have a picture I can send if that would help.

Questions are: (1) How to jumper Switch 5M-6M as Mad Mack suggested? (2) What else can I do if that is either not possible or does not solve the problem?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Hey, you're making great progress! One thing to be aware of on wire colors: the colors can fade and change hue over time due to heatage and lintage; sometimes you havta use yer imagination, if'n you know what I mean.

As for jumpering, get on down to your sometimes-friendly Radio Shock and buy a bag of jumper wires for a buck two-eighty.

I'd be surprised to the point of twitching an eyebrow if jumpering 5M and 6M didn't work-- there ain't much else going on in that circuit.

[Award]

OK, which two terminal shall I jumper?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Splicing the information from the wiring diagram and from the photo you posted, it looks like you should jumper the T-W wirre (tan-white) and purple.

[Award]

HAPPY ENDING!  When I undid the wiring harness that plugs into the terminals on the motor switch, I noticed that the top part of the connector required my using a screwdrive to detach it, while the bottom part did not.  It struck me that the problem may have been a loose connection.  I re-attached the harness, jumpered the leads going to the door switch, used a bungy cord to hoist the idler so the broken belt switch was not activated, plugged in the power cord, hit the push to start button and it ran just like it should run.

Many thanks to all of you talented Appliantologists.  You have been most helpful, and I couldn't have done it without you.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Thanks for telling us whatcha found!