GE Upright Freezer (FUF20DMBRWH), not Freezing

[Milanomike]

OK, subject upright freezer not cold, thermometer claims 40 F or so.  Fortunately seemed to catch right away as only some small items thawed, big stuff still frozen.  Moved stuff to kitchen freezer.

Symptoms: fan is running constantly, cannot tell, but do not think compressor is running.  Turning setting knob from low to high has no effect, i.e. I do not hear any clicks or hear/feel the compressor does kicking on.  First guess is maybe the thermostat failed, coils are not external on this unit so can't clean, no obvious frost anywhere inside the unit. 

First thoughts to troubleshoot this unit?  Find thermostat and check (for continuity?).  Any other thoughts, searching hasn't turned much up on this unit.

Thanks.

Mike

[LI-NY Tech]

The first thing to do is to figure out if the compressir is running. If it is, and all the fans are running, and you don't have a buildup of frost on the evap you probably have a sealed system problem. If it's not running you need to figure out why. 

 

If the compressor isn't running but the fans are it's probably a bad start relay. 

[DurhamAppliance]

yeah,  if fans are running then odds are it's not the thermostat. If compressor isn't running,  more than likely a failed start device

Edited February 7, 2016 by DurhamAppliance

[Milanomike]

Thanks for the input, I pulled the unit away from the way and found compressor is not running.  Compressor is also hot, making my simple brain think seized, not sure why compressor would be hot if not running.  Will get relay out this afternoon.

 

[Thirstytech]

Amperage draw readings from compressor would solve this mystery.

[DurhamAppliance]

compressor can get hot due to relay trying to start it...

In my opinion, an ohm test is more useful in determining compressor failure than an amp draw test when a compressor is receiving power but will not start up. 

 

[Milanomike]

OK, it's a nice day here, but I'm in basement with this freezer.  Here's where I is:

- Found start relay assy on side of compresser, pulled off compressor and found it is a 2 part assembly.  The 3 pin unit that plugs into the compressor and a "relay" like item with 2 prongs that plugs in the starter relay piece.  This assembly plugs into the compressor.

1.  Checking the 3 pins on the compressor with my DVM I get

- between common and each pin, 6.8 and 3.1 ohms respectively.

- then between the 2 non common pins I get 9.7 ohms.  According to the all knowing internet, this is spot on as the 2 readings summed up should equal the pin reading when connected in series within .5 ohm.  Looks like compressor coil is good to me. 

2.  So, next step is test 2 prong relay/capacitor somehow to verify it's dead or good, but how?  Can I test with my Fluke DVM?

Thanks for the push in the right direction.

Mike 

 

 

[DurhamAppliance]

No really good way to test a relay...one rule, if it rattles when you shake it, then it's bad...there are some continuity checks you can do with a relay but it's not conclusive....

 

ini addition to the pin test you performed, make sure you test the pins for grounding....scratch off some of the varnish on the compressor and check pins against the bare metal of the compressor for grounding.

[Milanomike]

Durham Appliance,

Thanks for input, did exactly as you said above, removed some varnish, checked I had enough off for contact (continuity) and checked each of 3 pins against compressor case.  No continuity in all 3 cases.

No rattling of 2 prong relay, which I'm thinking is a capacitor (why would a capacitor rattle?), no rattling of 3 pin piece either.

Also, searching looks like my starter relay is NLA.....

[DurhamAppliance]

ok... yeah that's a capacitor.. it won't rattle and your start device is not the style that rattles,  I was thinking it was a different style.

 

.... it's still available  but quite expensive.... 

Part number: AP3672511

[Milanomike]

OK, checked the capacitor with my Fluke it is a 15 uF job and my Fluke reads it dead nuts on.  So that is good.

That means either the relay is dead (thinking most likely as it seems common) or the compressor is seized.  No way to solve without a new relay it appears.  Make sense?

The relay above is not the same p/n as mine.  Mine is a 3ARR51J101 (or 216649303), I guess the p/n could have been superseded.... 

Mike

[Milanomike]

Well searching around a bit more show it as available but out of stock here:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/GE-Freezer-Start-Device/WR08X10037/945013?modelNumber=FUF20DMBRWH&ss=a3b3i499d612190&mr=1

Definitely don't like that price at all....So, need to convince myself this bad boy is the problem before I shell out

[DurhamAppliance]

or.... 

 

 

[Milanomike]

Great, another project (laughing) thanks for the tip.  Got everything moved out of it so pressure is off.  Will update when I know more, almost super bowl time.

[Milanomike]

Just thinking a bit more on this, I would assume I cannot simply remove the capacitor and put 120 to the slots to bump the compressor.

[DurhamAppliance]

no

[Milanomike]

Well, looks like a 9 or so cu foot chest freezer is ~250, against at least 100 to fix this unit.  Looks like I'll throw in the towel and get a new smaller unit, don't need one as big as I have now, so only out ~150 or so.  Thanks for the help as always.  I learned a bit about freezers.

[vee8power]

Did you rig a test cord like in the link that Durham provided? If the compressor starts with the test cord and doesn't draw much more than 2 amps, then this will start your compressor. Part number: AP4503418

If you follow the procedure in the link to check the compressor and make the repair with this or the OEM part, don't put $1000 dollars worth of groceries in it until after it has been running for a couple of days. The problem may still be the compressor. The aftermarket relay is a MUCH cheaper experiment.  

[Milanomike]

I didn't test it with the test cord as I figured the start relay was 100 bucks.  Did not realize this existed.  Clearly a much cheaper option. Will see what kind of time I have this weekend as I need to fix my garage door opener also.....