Frigidaire dish washer

[needtoknow]

5 year old fridgidaire DW in rental unit.  Tested today on light cycle.  never goes to the drying cycle, just keeps washing/filling/draining.   One thing i did and not sure if this has any bearing on problem.   i did not close detergent drawer before running.  Not sure if that matters, if it has some switch/logic.  Otherwise suspect circuit board not working correctly.

Any help appreciated.

 

[DanInKansas]

To get help on this you'll need to post the model number. On Frigidaire units that's often on the right hand side as you open the door. 

[needtoknow]

Sorry for the delay.  its a rental property and not close by.  it is Frigidaire model FDB520RHS0     Fairly basic unit with few run options.  

The only way i got it to stop running and drain was to hit the start/cancel button.  I guess its semi-functional if the tenant knows to just cancel after ample time but I'd rather fix it.  

Thx

[needtoknow]

5 year old dish washer in rental unit.  Frigidaire model FDB520RHS0.   Tested today on light cycle.  never goes to the drying cycle, just keeps washing/filling/draining.   One thing i did and not sure if this has any bearing on problem.   i did not close detergent drawer before running; I'm not sure if that matters (i.e if it has some switch/logic tied to the detergent drawer).  Otherwise I suspect circuit board not working correctly.

Any help appreciated.

[needtoknow]

anybody have a reply to this question?

 

[DanInKansas]

Okay so the tricky part is that this dishwasher has a thermister but I don't see anything on the tech sheet about what its appropriate continuity might be. 

It's probably a bad board but it could be that the dishwasher is stuck on the cycle because it's trying to heat. 

To rule this out, you'll need a continuity tester that can go into thousands of ohms. 

There are two yellow wires at the board. You should have kiloohms of continuity there. Unfortunately I can't tell you if that's 2 or 20. However hundreds of kiloohms is wrong as is megaohms, and of course the same is true for an "open line" or "infinite resistance."

The thermister should have no continuity to chassis ground. 

Going from the red wire at the board to the white wire at the door switch you should have small resistance -- I would guess somewhere between 7 to 15 ohms. An open line here means that either the thermal cutout is open or the heating element is broken. That could also get the unit stuck purging and dumping. 

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

They do show a thermistor on the schematic but I'll be ding-danged if I can find it on the parts diagram.

Absent any specs to work with, we can try backing in to the solution. 

Select Eco-wash and turn make sure both the Sanitize and Hi-Temp wash options are off. Run a cycle and see if it completes normally. That cycle should take about 74 minutes. If it completes normally, then we know we have a problem with the water temperature sensing system.

[johntech]

Thermistor is normaly built into the turbidity sensor on these. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The way Frigidaire arranges their parts list can cause a problem sometimes.  They don't illustrate the thermister but have it listed on the parts breakdown of the control panel/console assembly at the end of the parts lists.

Listed as: NI 154227501THERMISTER

I don't ever recall working on a Frigidaire with that style of electronic control with push button selectors like that, so I don't know where the thermister is located.

All "NI" - Not Illustrated parts and parts Frigidaire considers functional are listed out of the main list of reference numbers, (IE: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7).   They are at the bottom listed as F5, F8, F9, etc.

Part number: 154227501

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Good find, Willie! 

[needtoknow]

appliance repair guy replaced circuit board and door seal.  said by process of elimination all else working ok.