LG combo washer/dryer wm3431hw not drying

[Jjj]

I have an LG washer dryer combo wm3431hw It is no longer drying. the cloths are not soaking wet just very damp. the pump works great I replaced it about 8 months ago.

there are no error codes and I replaced the cold water 3 way solenoid valve just because its the most common problem with it.

I did not find any lint buildup. but its still not drying and still no error codes. Any thought on how to proceed? thanks john

[abaesemann]

How is the venting on your dryer. Easiest way to determine and verify it is your dryer and not your venting is to disconnect vent from dryer and dry the same load you normally would and see how that load is. Most poor drying problems are related to the venting and mostly the easiest to repair.

[Jjj]

its ventless

[abaesemann]

Sorry my bad, did not even look it up, will look soon to see .

[abaesemann]

There is a service manual on this website, but I think you may have to upgrade to access it, too large to post here. Good diagnosing material in it.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

23 minutes ago, abaesemann said:

There is a service manual on this website, but I think you may have to upgrade to access it, too large to post here. Good diagnosing material in it.

It's best to NOT post manuals or documents at attachments because it bloats up the database. Far better to use the File system. 

[john63]

17 hours ago, Jjj said:

I have an LG washer dryer combo wm3431hw It is no longer drying. the cloths are not soaking wet just very damp. the pump works great I replaced it about 8 months ago.

there are no error codes and I replaced the cold water 3 way solenoid valve just because its the most common problem with it.

I did not find any lint buildup. but its still not drying and still no error codes. Any thought on how to proceed? thanks john

The Service Manual is not going to help for this symptom.

Let's start with verifying the parts/components that already have been replaced.

Drain Motor: 4681EA2001T

Cold Water Valve: Part number: AJU71030102

orPart number: 5220FR2075C

 

Note:

If the incorrect---but identical-in-appearance Water Valve has been installed (such as 5221ER1003A)---drying effectiveness will be terrible (very wet laundry at end of cycle).

 

If this was a service call---and you've described to me---all that is in your original post---the very first thing I'd ask is...

"Have you been loading laundry in the tub correctly?"

To which most customers say: ""Huh?---how do you mean?"

On all WM3431 model LG Combo laundry units---there's a black *hash mark* sticker on the front cover of the washer (door must open to see it)---located on the left side of the front panel---at approximately the 10 O'clock position.

This black line---is the Max Line for loading *dry* laundry in the tub.

If laundry is loaded above that line---clothing will *not* dry properly.

If the amount of laundry in the tub is *correct*---the clothing will further sag/drop below the Max Line---when fully wet.

This will not only allow good cleaning results for the wash cycle (better tumbling of laundry)---but will allow for better drying of clothing due to the rolling/tumbling action of the fabrics (similar to an ocean wave).

Drying times vary---depending on load size and fabric type.

A normal (correct) load of T-shirts may take only 2 hours to dry.

A load of towels---anywhere from 3 to 6 hours.

On this type washer/dryer combo---it is best to select the DRY CYCLE button to the *TIME* setting---and then select the run time desired.

After using this setting for a few loads---you'll become acclimated to the approximate times needed for the different load types.

Using the TIMED DRY setting allows for higher heat during the cycle---than using the other selections (which are auto sensing cycles at a lower heat range).

 

It is imperative to remove the DUCT that is connected to the BLOWER HOUSING and the rear TUB at the bottom (7mm screws).

Once removed---you'll be able to properly/effectively clean of lint accumulation (which is very common).

Inspect the opening at the bottom of the tub for debris---before re-installing the DUCT.

 

No error displayed---is a big clue as to how the unit is operating...

If the Heating Element had a fault---an error would be triggered (dry cycle would be aborted)

If the BLOWER MOTOR was running too slow or seized---an error would be triggered (dry cycle would be cancelled)

Drain Motors (due to the extended running time in a combo laundry unit) tend to die an early death---about 2 to 3 years.

Cold Water Valves fail in about the same period of time (especially Valve 03)

Check the Drain Strainer every 1 to 3 months---depending on usage.

 

The fact that this is a compact sized washer/dryer combo---it is very,very important to use the *correct* type and amount of laundry detergent.

Only "HE" (High Efficiency/Suds Inhibiting) detergent should be used.

Completely and totally disregard the dosage instructions listed on the detergent product label.

Use the following dosage...

HE: (1) Tablespoon Per Load (All Load Sizes)

HE 2X (double concentrated detergent): (1) Teaspoon Per Load

HE 3X (triple concentrated detergent): Not Recommended

 

 

 

Edited February 19, 2016 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Added part links.

[Jjj]

53 minutes ago, john63 said:

The Service Manual is not going to help for this symptom.

Let's start with verifying the parts/components that already have been replaced.

Drain Motor: 4681EA2001T

Cold Water Valve: AJU71030102 or 5220FR2075C

Note:

If the incorrect---but identical-in-appearance Water Valve has been installed (such as 5221ER1003A)---drying effectiveness will be terrible (very wet laundry at end of cycle).

 

If this was a service call---and you've described to me---all that is in your original post---the very first thing I'd ask is...

"Have you been loading laundry in the tub correctly?"

To which most customers say: ""Huh?---how do you mean?"

On all WM3431 model LG Combo laundry units---there's a black *hash mark* sticker on the front cover of the washer (door must open to see it)---located on the left side of the front panel---at approximately the 10 O'clock position.

This black line---is the Max Line for loading *dry* laundry in the tub.

If laundry is loaded above that line---clothing will *not* dry properly.

If the amount of laundry in the tub is *correct*---the clothing will further sag/drop below the Max Line---when fully wet.

This will not only allow good cleaning results for the wash cycle (better tumbling of laundry)---but will allow for better drying of clothing due to the rolling/tumbling action of the fabrics (similar to an ocean wave).

Drying times vary---depending on load size and fabric type.

A normal (correct) load of T-shirts may take only 2 hours to dry.

A load of towels---anywhere from 3 to 6 hours.

On this type washer/dryer combo---it is best to select the DRY CYCLE button to the *TIME* setting---and then select the run time desired.

After using this setting for a few loads---you'll become acclimated to the approximate times needed for the different load types.

Using the TIMED DRY setting allows for higher heat during the cycle---than using the other selections (which are auto sensing cycles at a lower heat range).

 

It is imperative to remove the DUCT that is connected to the BLOWER HOUSING and the rear TUB at the bottom (7mm screws).

Once removed---you'll be able to properly/effectively clean of lint accumulation (which is very common).

Inspect the opening at the bottom of the tub for debris---before re-installing the DUCT.

 

No error displayed---is a big clue as to how the unit is operating...

If the Heating Element had a fault---an error would be triggered (dry cycle would be aborted)

If the BLOWER MOTOR was running too slow or seized---an error would be triggered (dry cycle would be cancelled)

Drain Motors (due to the extended running time in a combo laundry unit) tend to die an early death---about 2 to 3 years.

Cold Water Valves fail in about the same period of time (especially Valve 03)

Check the Drain Strainer every 1 to 3 months---depending on usage.

 

The fact that this is a compact sized washer/dryer combo---it is very,very important to use the *correct* type and amount of laundry detergent.

Only "HE" (High Efficiency/Suds Inhibiting) detergent should be used.

Completely and totally disregard the dosage instructions listed on the detergent product label.

Use the following dosage...

HE: (1) Tablespoon Per Load (All Load Sizes)

HE 2X (double concentrated detergent): (1) Teaspoon Per Load

HE 3X (triple concentrated detergent): Not Recommended

 

 

 

Thank you for such a detailed response. I have been using this dryer for years with good overall performance and reliability. It's not a traditional washer and dryer so I do understand its usage and limitations. 

The correct HE laundry detergent has always been used. The capacity for washing is double the drying load so in general we have always placed the proper amount of drying load as the washing load (1/2) load. The unit has worked well for years since 2008. Last year the drain pump failed and it was replaced and it worked as before, excellent. It stopped drying not too long ago. In my research and calling LG the solenoid valve is a common problem so I replaced it. It was a foolish and uneducated reason for doing so without an error code. But it did not change anything. The close are still damp as the were before not more wet but the same. The part number for the cold water solenoid was provided by LG. 

I do not feel any heat at all coming from the unit. There are no error codes. The drain filter is clean there is no lint build up that I could find. But I did not inspect the rear tube so that's where I will look tomorrow. 

Thanks again for the detailed explanation. 

John

[john63]

Not foolish at all.

It's a good idea to replace the Drain Motor and Cold Water Valve---every 3 years---in addition to removing and cleaning the DUCT Assy.

A slow Drain Motor will not always trigger an "OE" error---and can cause poor drying results.

The Cold Water Valve (Valve 03) can fail by either not working at all or running a full flow stream of water into the DUCT Assy---without triggering an error message.

If the DUCT has never been cleaned in 6 or 7 years---that is the most likely source of the poor drying complaint.

To remove the DUCT---you'll need to allow yourself a patient 2 to 3 hours of slowly and thoughtfully removing a few components (memorizing and/or taking pictures)

1) Remove top cover

2) Remove second top cover (metal heat shield)

3) Remove rear-of-the-washer access panel

4) Remove 2 long-length silver-color screws from the *black* Heater Duct-----at the front of the tub

5) Remove all shorter-length silver-color screws from the rest of the *black* Heater Duct Assy (lift off & flip)

6) Remove the black water supply hose from the white plastic DUCT 

7) Pull out the Thermistor---from the white plastic DUCT

8) Remove all 7mm screws from the white plastic DUCT (about 5 at the top and approx 6 at the rear of the tub)

9) Lift plastic DUCT out of the unit---through the top

10) Thoroughly clean the DUCT with a Tube Brush or similar (compressed air can help but produces a mess)

11) Re-install and test

NOTES

I'm sure that I forgot a thing or 2 in the disassembly procedure---if so---it'll easily be intuitive to determine what step to take

When the black aluminum Heater Duct has been lifted/flipped over---inspect the rectangular shaped seal/gasket. Most times---these are so dried/scorched that they break apart,

This rectangular gasket is not available as a replacement part,.Use a tube of high temperature gasket maker if needed.

If this is not done---the Blower Motor will *suck in* air from outside the tub---reducing drying effectiveness.

[Jjj]

I took apart the rear duct this morning and yes it was clogged up. It was relatively easy to do but Such a bad design to have it not cleanable by the average consumer. Lots of screws to keep track of. 

Thanks a lot. As usual you guys are great 

 

thank you 

 

John 

[elsiewagner]

LG washer dryer combo wm3431hw does not have a lint trap. The moisture and lint are supposed to be converted to water and pumped out of the drain. You will need to remove the top and back panels and check these areas for blockage.