KitchenAid dishwasher KUDE60FVWH3 stops and error code

[katit]

Hello group!

Dishwasher started to give us trouble and my SO ordered me to fix it

Here is what I see and steps I took:

1. In 1Hr wash mode stops around 16 minutes. After long wash cycle it goes into draining, I see water drained just fine but it keeps going for 1+ minute and then stops and blinks "Clean" light, code 8-1

2. Code 8-1 (according to tech guide) is about INLET - WATER. Ok, I checked supply water line - about 2GPM. Then I took supply hose after inlet solenoid and tested flow to be about 1/2GPM. Solenoid locks just fine. I took it off, there is no junk, seems OK?

3. I took water pump off, found some hair on impeller. Cleaned. Nothing major.

4. Took drain pump off - some junk but nothing major. Cleaned.

5. Removed power for 60+ seconds.

6. Started machine again, same error. I run machine with clean water in all cases, no dishes, no detergent...

7. By the way, there is no back flow. After "Cancel" machine drains water and it's maybe 1/2 inch from the bottom, way below optical sensor.

 

I'm thinking if I get error right after it drains for over a minute. And it runs even after there is no water to drain.. To me logically seems like optical sensor W10134058 is a culprit. I checked wiring looks OK, I didn't test it though.. I found on this forum that this sensor never fails(is it??) but I see it for sale everywhere... It's clean too.

I ran diagnostics as per service manual. All lights light up at times they should, but I'm not sure if this is what I need to look for.

 

Anyway, any helpful advice appreciated!

Thank you

[16345Ed]

Here are some things to explore. Your valve test is bit unorthodox put I like how you're thinking. 

Check valve for continuity. 

Check valve for power when you run your diagnostic test

check for leaks 

check diverted disk in sump. 

 

Feels like a bad valve but testing is better than guessing. 

 

Good luck

[katit]

Thanks for reply!

I guess you refer to inlet valve? Well, I'm sure it's OK because as I said, I disconnected hose between valve and machine and yes, I can see water going and stopping at cycles, no need to check it for continuity, it operates.. No leaks. Diverter disk is OK too.

I ran diagnostics again but this time I read all errors and I got 8-1, 1-1, 3-3 and 8-2. 8-2 is inlet temp which is expected, I didn't drain hot water before tests. But 1-1 is "Pilot stuck ON, K2 relay.." - that seems like relay got stuck. 3-3 is OWI calibration failure.

I did search on this. Those machines have all of the relays on control board. And those are solid state relays. And they are failing. And shortly before this failure machine had a plug in drain line for a while. All of those facts kind of make me think that yes, probably relay for drain pump got stuck.

Knowing how much service visit cost and know knowing all the parts - I figured $90 control board is not a big deal if I try to replace it.. Will see when I get it. If it doesn't fix it - OWI sensor should do for sure..

[coolmen777]

Hi, can you please provide an update regarding the resolution of the KitchenAid dishwasher issue you had? I am getting exactly same codes and wandering what the solution was (part replaced). Thanks in advance for any info you or anyone can provide. 

On 2/26/2016 at 5:30 PM, katit said:

Thanks for reply!

I ran diagnostics again but this time I read all errors and I got 8-1, 1-1, 3-3 and 8-2. 8-2 is inlet temp which is expected, I didn't drain hot water before tests. But 1-1 is "Pilot stuck ON, K2 relay.." - that seems like relay got stuck. 3-3 is OWI calibration failure.

I did search on this. Those machines have all of the relays on control board. And those are solid state relays. And they are failing. And shortly before this failure machine had a plug in drain line for a while. All of those facts kind of make me think that yes, probably relay for drain pump got stuck.

Knowing how much service visit cost and know knowing all the parts - I figured $90 control board is not a big deal if I try to replace it.. Will see when I get it. If it doesn't fix it - OWI sensor should do for sure..

 

[lvasquez11]

Check for any possible water damage to diverter 

[coolmen777]

1 hour ago, lvasquez11 said:

Check for any possible water damage to diverter 

I had sam .codes that were cleared via reset after diagnostics was completed and currently no codes are appearing. What is weird is machine runs fine right after diagnostics (fills, motor runs, drains, etc). But if I let it sit overnight, it would fill and motor wouldn't come on (but I can hear faint noise of something trying to initiate). If I cancel, machine drains and occasionally after multiple attempts it would start and run all the way. Is diverter same thing as a main motor/drain assembly? 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Pull the the connector with wires from the main wash motor, using a needle to get under each of the contacts in the connector bend the contacts slightly to the inside of the connector so they make better contact on the motor connection.

If you still have intermittent wash motor operation after tightening the contacts in the connector you will most likely need to replace the wash motor or the complete sump assembly that includes all new sump parts except for drain motor and sensor.

[lvasquez11]

No. Pull red n blue wires on left side. You might hearing diverter motor attempting to change from lower to upper wash action. 

 

[lvasquez11]

[coolmen777]

Just to make sure, pull out the connector and leave it unplugged or try to bend back the pins? 

In terms of symptoms, wouldn't the main motor/pump would have to bring that water to the diverter first? When it works, if I open the door, I see water dripping all over (including from the top sprayer), telling me that diverter is working ok. 

[lvasquez11]

Water damage to diverter will cause erratic issues. Diverter can’t find lower or upper position. It just keeps turning n turning. Just remove connections n try running it. 

[lvasquez11]

Remove drain pump n make sure inside of sump area is smooth. If not use som sand paper to smooth it out.  Rough sump area will cause int drain errors.

[coolmen777]

No go, just got around to trying your suggestions and unplugged the diverter (both sides/connector) and used 150 grit sandpaper for sump side (like advised above) even though it wasn't bad (just to be safe). Put everything together and same thing. I will try and upload a sound that it makes for you guys. To make matters worse, now drain pump makes noise but doesn't pump out the water. 

I did see some stains and sticky residue on the back housing and even on wiring. But no signs of water leaking anywhere on floor.  See attached.

During this period of last 3 weeks I have been able to get it to run and wash if I unplugged it for over 30 min and most times it would run. Will do the same again tonight and see if it resolves itself again.

Might be just time to get a new one... 

Bottom

Image 1

Image 2

Sump area

[coolmen777]

Here is a video with audio of the noise that In hear right after it fills up. Thanks in advance for your help & advice.

Video