Samsung RF266AERS - no response from ice maker

[W1ndH2O]

Ice maker stopped working.

I ordered and installed a new unit (DA97-07603B) in the bottom freezer compartment. On powering the fridge back on, and on holding the test button for several seconds on the ice maker I get no response from the unit.  I unscrewed the assembly, and (with power off) unplugged/replugged the wiring harness just to make sure it was connected-- and did hear/feel it click into place.  Other than the fact that my old unit did the same thing (no response on holding test button), how do I know the control module in the new ice maker assembly is good (which I figured was shot in the old assembly) v. some other issue in my fridge (like motherboard)?

Everything else in the fridge seems to be functioning propertly (fridge holds 38, freezer holds -2, no condensation nor ice build up, water dispenser works properly, no leaks, no gurgling nor grinding, etc).  And, also the 'ice off' function is not enabled-- no ice off icon displaying on the panel.

Any suggestions re: next steps in troubleshooting (diag mode/codes?) or brute replacement would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DurhamAppliance]

make sure the "ice off"  icon on the interface isn't lit up.  If so,  toggle it off. 

[W1ndH2O]

confirmed-- the icon is/has been off meaning ice making is theoretically enabled (or 'ice off' is disabled).  No 'ice off' icon is displayed/illuminated.

(We can agree the icon should be such a glass in a circle with a line through it, OR the glass of ice 'should' mean ice is on, and absence of it should mean ice is off. But i understand to the contrary Samsung's design is such that displaying the cup of ice with minuscule 'ice off' text requiring one to put on their glasses == ice off)

 

any pins i can/should check for specific voltage on the motherboard, or at the ice maker wiring harness which would indicate no power to the ice maker unit v. 2 bad control units in the old and new ice maker assembly? it's as if the unit is entirely unpowered. No water is dispensed to it either. 

[DurhamAppliance]

ok.. test freezer  thermistors  and icemaker eject thermistor for voltage...... Although you see - 2 on the interface,  it doesn't mean that's the actual temperature.   Test after freezer door is closed for at least an hour.... also test the icemaker test switch, and the door switch. 

With the ice bucket not full,  your freezer temps should be - 14f if the ice off indicator isn't lit up.... and yes... with the indicator lit up,  it means the icemaker is on and the - 14f routine is active.