MVWX500XW0 - Won't start

[xman1x]

Originally, the lid wouldn't lock so I replaced the lid lock and got it working. However, whatever it does immediately after locking won't do anything. It tries to do whatever is next, can't, and then pauses and opens the lock. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[sh2sh2]

Need to enter diagnostic mode and pull error codes

[lvasquez11]

Does basket turn freely ? Make sure pulley on tight.

Very common Part number: W10006355

[xman1x]

Basket turns freely. Not sure how to enter diagnostic mode or view/interpret error codes on this model because it doesn't have a display window like the YouTube videos I watched. 

[johntech]

open the top of the machine or tilt it back and reach up to the front left hand side of machine and you should find a tech sheet with diagnostic info. You will need to pull error codes to lead you and us in the right direction. The way I test the actuator is shift it back and fourth between agitate and spin a few times till it fails. Actuator is he most common failure I have found on this style washer. Normally the complaint is no spin or intermittent spin.

[16345Ed]

Tech sheet will help you read the lights on the front to determine error codes. 

The guys are leading you in the right direction but need to verify via tech sheet diagnostics. 

I'd also check your cold water inlet. Unhook hose and see if there's a bunch of crud on inlet screen. If so flush with water to clean. 

Good luck

Edited March 24, 2016 by 16345Ed

[xman1x]

I ran the machine through the automatic test mode. It ran through cycles and then the display stopped at wash/lid lock. Tech sheet says that it has an estimated time of about 5-15 seconds. Does that mean how long it'll display before it blinks again? If so, it never did - it just stayed on.

Continuing the test, I clicked start to advance to the next cycle which it ran through until it stopped again at Wash/spin/done/lid lock - again another about 5-15 seconds, but it never blinked. I manually advanced it again and it completed the test without hiccups.

Wash/lid lock, according to tech sheet says - "shifter moves to agitation position". If motor does not agitate, go to manual test: gentle or heavy agitation.

Wash/spin/done/lock says "Shifter moves to spin position. If basket is not turning, go to manual test: low or high spin".

I didn't have time to go to manual test because I'm being rushed out the door, but given the codes I'm getting and what you have said, is it the shift actuator that needs to be replaced? Thanks!

[Captain Dunsel]

This nice video can help you to figure out the codes.Even though it is a different model. 

 

[16345Ed]

22 hours ago, xman1x said:

I ran the machine through the automatic test mode. It ran through cycles and then the display stopped at wash/lid lock. Tech sheet says that it has an estimated time of about 5-15 seconds. Does that mean how long it'll display before it blinks again? If so, it never did - it just stayed on.

Continuing the test, I clicked start to advance to the next cycle which it ran through until it stopped again at Wash/spin/done/lid lock - again another about 5-15 seconds, but it never blinked. I manually advanced it again and it completed the test without hiccups.

Wash/lid lock, according to tech sheet says - "shifter moves to agitation position". If motor does not agitate, go to manual test: gentle or heavy agitation.

Wash/spin/done/lock says "Shifter moves to spin position. If basket is not turning, go to manual test: low or high spin".

I didn't have time to go to manual test because I'm being rushed out the door, but given the codes I'm getting and what you have said, is it the shift actuator that needs to be replaced? Thanks!

No one can answer that question until testing is complete. 

 

[delawaredrew]

You could certainly have a bad actuator, but pull the codes as per manual.  They will be F?E? represented by lights as the video shows. It'll flash F part and then E part of code, there are probably multiple codes.  Note them all. 

Also if you look beneath it is there a coil of red wires attached to tub bottom?  If so look for a break in that wire near coil.  This was a common issue, but coil (noise filter) was removed eventually.

[xman1x]

Alright, so I replaced the actuator and re-calibrated it. After sending it through auto-test mode, all systems were go and I was ready to wash. However, after it putting through the wash, everything was fine until it got to the spin cycle. The lid unlocked and it just held on Spin until I told it what to do next. Opening/closing the lid and pressing start put it back in action and it spun out and finished the cycle. Any thoughts?

Also, the coil of red wires was all good, no issues or breaks.

[16345Ed]

Did you ever check your  water inlet valve for debris?

Disconnect cold water supply line look inside valve, flush that screen if gunked up  

Ive seen low water flow cause cause this before. 

[xman1x]

I did check this, but I will check again to be sure. Thank you.

[sh2sh2]

What error codes did u get?

[xman1x]

After re-calibrating it following the new actuator, I didn't get any error code on the auto-test. Then I ran it through a real load and it stopped on spin, which is when I just pushed start to get it to continue and finish. I ran another auto-test thinking something must have happened, but I didn't receive any error code on it.

[sh2sh2]

The code wont come up automatically, you have to go in the diagnostics mode and pull the code

[xman1x]

Right. I went into diagnostic mode and did the auto-test. It completed the test with no errors. This was after replacing the actuator and re-calibrating.

[xman1x]

Cleaned out inlet valves but there was nothing really wrong with them. Recalibrated again. Ran through auto test in diagnostic mode again. Everything good. Ran it through a regular mode, no spin again. If I let it go long enough, it does automatically advance to the end of cycle, but again, no spin and clothes are sopping wet.

[16345Ed]

When you ran tests did it spin?

If not, did you ever go and do the manual tests as instructed in the tech sheet?

If yes what was the result? And what does the tech sheet say to do?

 

[16345Ed]

We shouldn't throw parts at it until we determine what part is failing. 

[xman1x]

I ran through diagnostics after my OP and in following the tech sheet I was able to determine that the actuator had failed. So I replaced it. I then recalibrated as the tech sheet instructs. And ran through another test in diagnostic mode. Everything advanced properly. So I ran an actual load through and it won't spin.

[16345Ed]

Does it spin in test mode?

if not you need to put it in manual test mode, lock the lid, then test the spin speeds at the motor test. If it doesn't spin in this manual mode then you go to test 3 of the motor circuit.

let the tech sheet guide you

 

 

Edited April 11, 2016 by 16345Ed

[xman1x]

When in automatic test mode, it advances through all cycles. Yes, it does spin. 

[16345Ed]

Did you do this...

No Spin:

1. Lid switch. See TEST #8, page 6.

2. Unplug washer or disconnect

   power.

3. Check harness connections.

4. Motor. See TEST #3, at right. 

Please report back results. 

[16345Ed]

TEST #3 Motor Circuit

This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor, and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.

NOTE: Drain water from tub.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, page 2 and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Spin test under Manual: Motor, page 2. The following steps assume that this step failed.

2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.

3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4.

   If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up.

4. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, page 6.

5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.

   If visual checks pass, go to step 6.

   If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1. 

   6. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. With an ohmmeter, verify resistance values as shown below: Check between connector pins Resistance values should be: Go to step 7 if values are: Go to step 12 if: P5 1-2 31 Ω ± 5 Ω Much higher than 31 Ω Resistances at all connectors are correct 1-3 P10 6-5 1.5 kΩ ± 100 Ω Much higher or much lower than 1.5 kΩ 6-4 6-3 1-7 600 Ω to 21.2 kΩ Out of range Tilt washer forward to access the bottom of the washer and the drive motor area. See figure 1, page 14. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See figure 2, page 14. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board. If visual check passes, go to step 9. If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover, and repeat step 1. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See figures 2 and 5, pages 14 and 15. If there is continuity, check the motor windings. If the motor windings are open, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.