GSS22VGMC How to kick of a defrost cycle

[nosejustenough]

Hello,

Is there a way to get my GE side by side to kick off a defrost cycle so I can verify that the new element I just put in fixed the problem (iced up coils).

Last July (9 months ago) I had the board and thermostat replace to solve the same problem.   Fixed it tell this week.    Put a new heater in (the dual

style) about 10 hours ago, just took the panel off and see that there is a "minor" amount of frost on the coils.  Can't tell if it has cycled, is yet to cycle,

or is still broke.

Thanks, Daryl

[nosejustenough]

Just now, nosejustenough said:

Hello,

Is there a way to get my GE side by side to kick off a defrost cycle so I can verify that the new element I just put in fixed the problem (iced up coils).

Last July (9 months ago) I had the board and thermostat replace to solve the same problem.   Fixed it tell this week.    Put a new heater in (the dual

style) about 10 hours ago, just took the panel off and see that there is a "minor" amount of frost on the coils.  Can't tell if it has cycled, is yet to cycle,

or is still broke.

Thanks, Daryl

 

[vee8power]

There's no way to initiate defrost with the controls you have(rotary knobs to adjust freezer and refrigerator sides). The only way is to short the line and defrost on the main board blue connector. Plug the fridge back in after shorting those two connections on the board and the heater will come on if the circuit is intact. 

If you proved the defrost heater to be bad by reading an open heater with an ohm-meter and you saw the burned up element inside the glass tube then that was probably your problem.

You mentioned the "thermostat" was replaced. These are often called thermistors:

Part number: AP3185407

These need to be replaced on your fridge. There are 3 of them. Replace them all. Follow the video except make the connections water proof with some dielectric grease or silicone sealant in the connectors.

[nosejustenough]

15 hours ago, nosejustenough said:

Thank you very much for your reply.   I did notice that the old heater looked totally fried, and ohmed out as an open.   I wasn't sure that the "open" wasn't caused by my man handling it when I unplugged the leads.   But most likely that is it (it hadn't been replaced before I don't think.   Yup, misspoke on the "thermostat"/"thermistor".   Just hoping there was a way to prove the board was good/bad other than by elimination of everything else.     Thanks again.