Whirlpool washer stalls between spins LSC8224DQ0

[Melina1]

I seem to recall my washing machine used to drain some after the wash/rinse cycles before it started spinning, now it just starts spinning with the full load of water. After it goes through the primary spin it stalls and doesn't go into the secondary spin allowing a rinse water to pass through the clothes before it starts to fill and do the second wash (rinse).. during the stall the motor is running  and the timer does not move until I lift up on the lid  and put it back down then it will start spinning again but won't have any flow of water to rinse through the clothes on this secondary spin.  In all my readings on the net I think I have either a bad timer a bad lid switch ( it is securely attached )or as a friend has said, a bad capacitor what do you guys think ???

[MAPS Appliance Repair]

Not sure what model you have, If you open the lid and the motor stops, your lid switch is ok.

It sounds like you have a neutral drain transmission. If the timer don't Pause at the right spot, It will not go into spin.By you opening the lid, You are forcing the transmission into spin

  Sounds like it is a bad timer.

 

Paul

 

[Smashycomman]

Your model # doesn't come up with anything for me, but if this is a Direct Drive, Whirlpool-built washer... one thing I've noticed on these neutral drain transmissions is that they need to reset themselves in order for the neutral drain to work. They do this by letting it agitate (motor spinning one way) for, I think, 6-8 minutes... uninterrupted. Also, if the spin is interrupted, and it isn't allowed to fully spin out, the neutral drain doesn't engage sometimes. 

What I do is to let the washer go through 1 or 2 full cycles, uninterrupted, before I judge if the neutral drain in the transmission is bad. 

[abaesemann]

Sounds like a bad timer

Part number: 3948171

[Melina1]

Yes, the motor stops when i open the lid in a spin cycle and i posted the wrong model number it is LSC8244DQ0

 

Thanks

[Melina1]

1 hour ago, Smashycomman said:

Your model # doesn't come up with anything for me, but if this is a Direct Drive, Whirlpool-built washer... one thing I've noticed on these neutral drain transmissions is that they need to reset themselves in order for the neutral drain to work. They do this by letting it agitate (motor spinning one way) for, I think, 6-8 minutes... uninterrupted. Also, if the spin is interrupted, and it isn't allowed to fully spin out, the neutral drain doesn't engage sometimes. 

What I do is to let the washer go through 1 or 2 full cycles, uninterrupted, before I judge if the neutral drain in the transmission is bad. 

I first got into this bcause the machine was working less and less until it finally stopped all together but for a while it has been acting up on the spins. I originally thought it was the coupler and my girl friend was saying just buy a new washer but no i had to march on. Once i got into the machine the coupler was fine but the transmission was leaking oil badly so i bought a new one and when i was finished for the day i uprighted the machine for more room. Then after i mated the new tranny to the motor with the new coupler laid the washer back down and noticed a cam, a nylon piece and a C clip on the floor that i did not remove. Come to find out the C clip had worn through the brass sleeve of the brake assembly so i bought a new assembly against her wishes. While i was at Trebles i went all out and bought a new clutch, now i have about 450.00 in this old machine and it looks like i have to hope a new 150.00 dollar timer will fix this mess