Washer not spinning

[costlowj]

Hi Everyone,

I am hoping someone can help point me in the right direction on what to do. I got a Whirlpool washer for free, I believe it is a WTW4950XW0, but don't know the tag is missing as well as the tech sheet.

The issue is if you go to start a load it locks the door, the sensing light comes on, it makes an odd noise, then it unlocks the door.

I have ran the automatic test cycle, when it runs the washer locks the lid, fills the tub, makes that same odd noise, drains the tub, and unlocks the door. I am inclined to believe it;'s the shift sensor but not sure.

 

Any help is appreciated.

[sh2sh2]

Check the wire harness at the motor and also the capacitor for bulging, also what error codes are there?

[costlowj]

I will double check the harness tonight but didn't see anything.

The capacitor though, looked bulged.

Thanks for your reply. I will double check and pull the codes when I get home tonight.

[Hiroshi]

Usually, these try to spin for a second to "feel" how much is in the washtub.... If it cant verify tub spin, it stops trying. you will likely need this part (located next to the capacitor) W10006355  which contains the optics that "see" the spin-tub moving. It is called the Actuator 

[Hiroshi]

dont forget to tighten the nut holding on the drive pulley either- they are notorious for coming loose

[Captain Dunsel]

If you need capacitor this is the part number and is rated at 50uf at plus or minus 5%. Part number: W10804664

[costlowj]

Sorry for the late reply everyone and thanks again for your help.

9 hours ago, sh2sh2 said:

Check the wire harness at the motor and also the capacitor for bulging, also what error codes are there?

The wire harness at the motor was in snug and I didn't see any split wires. I will attempt to pull the codes again as it acts like there aren't any. The capacitor looked like it was bulging, so I tested it with a multi-meter to be sure and it is dead. I have ordered one and will keep everyone posted.

9 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

Usually, these try to spin for a second to "feel" how much is in the washtub.... If it cant verify tub spin, it stops trying. you will likely need this part (located next to the capacitor) W10006355  which contains the optics that "see" the spin-tub moving. It is called the Actuator 

I will double check once the capacitor gets in, may need this part also.

9 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

dont forget to tighten the nut holding on the drive pulley either- they are notorious for coming loose

Thanks for pointing this out, I checked and they were tight.

 

8 hours ago, Captain Dunsel said:

If you need capacitor this is the part number and is rated at 50uf at plus or minus 5%. Part number: W10804664

Thanks, I ordered the part as mine looks bulged and has failed.

 

Also wondering this: How much money do ya'll think I should put into fixing it before dumping it. I grew up with Whirlpool washers and dryers but this one seems to not be built like the last one.

[evaappliance]

The have went downhill so much in the last 5 or 6 years it is not even funny !  Don't spend much over $100 in my opinion.  Find a older one to fix , you have to find one at least 8 years old or more to be any good 

[costlowj]

Hi everyone,

I wanted to give an update and see what suggestions ya'll had.

The capacitor  came in today and I replaced it. I also ran a calibration cycle like the tech sheet says to do, which you could now hear it spin in the calibration/test cycle. But it is doing the same thing when you attempt to run a cycle.

I believe I only got one code when I pulled them and I can't seem to find it in the tech sheet. I have a video of the code attached. 

 

Thanks and any help is appreciated. 

[micabay]

F5-E1. Control thinks the lid is open when it tried to lock.

  

LID SWITCH FAULT – LID UP			4		1	f5					1
Fault is displayed if lid is in locked state, but lid switch is open; control not sensing the strike in the lid lock. • User presses START with lid open. • The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly. • Strike not assembled correctly on the lid. • Lid lock bezel not installed correctly (must be square to embossing and flush to top)
Does the lid lock and light flash in manual test mode?

[costlowj]

When I go to manual test mode should I just go to fill to try that? 

I just want to make sure I do this correctly. 

[16345Ed]

Should be a manual test of the  lid lock. 

[costlowj]

I believe I have done the manual lid lock test, and it locks/unlocks like it is supposed to.

Here is a video as I want to be sure I did this correctly:

 

How should I proceed? 

[16345Ed]

As micabay showed the washer thinks the lid is open. Check the striker and lid lock bezel. 

[costlowj]

I have visually inspected the striker and lock bezel. Both seemed fine from what I can tell.

They were square with the lid and in tact. Everything was together and no issues on wiring harness. 

If I am checking it wrong please let me know. This is my first time working on any washer. 

[16345Ed]

It's starting to sound like main control board. Seems to be only thing left. 

[sh2sh2]

Are we sure there is only one error code?

[costlowj]

When I go to pull codes it has that one and the next three I try just have the sensing light blink.

I'm not sure if just the sensing light blinking by itself is a code or not.

[micabay]

12 minutes ago, sh2sh2 said:

Are we sure there is only one error code?

He showed a great video of him pulling the error codes, and clearing them too.

 

Lets start from the start.  This is how I approach this design machine.

1. Error codes: Done- lid lock code, cleared.

2. Speed sensor test: ?

3. Manual load test:  Lid lock passed.  Move onto all the other loads, one at a time. (Complaint, no spin- will it spin in manual test mode?)

4. Automatic test cycle: test all the load, except doesn't get up to high speed spin test (this is normal operation)

 

BTW, you are doing great.  Better than some seasoned techs.  

 

Edited April 14, 2016 by micabay

[costlowj]

Thanks, and hope the videos haven't been annoying to anyone, they explain better than I can at times lol.

Should I run a manual speed sensor test and a manual spin test? The automatic test seems fine, which is what I don't understand.

[micabay]

Yes run all manual test.  Takes about 15 mins for everything.  Post a video, with sound, of the machine while running the high speed spin too.

 

[Hiroshi]

Actuator brother.... it is notorious for causing odd pauses and cycle aborts on these

[costlowj]

This may be a stupid question, won't know till I ask lol.

When you run manual tests do aren't they supposed to run for an alotted amount of time and finish? Or does the test run until I stop it? Can post a video but washer seems to run until I stop and go to next test.

Sorry for the delay in response been busy at work.

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Manual test run until you toggle them off after being turned on.

You can manually turn on manual water fill test, move dial to go to another test and turn that manual test on and both will be running at the same time until you turn the dial back and toggle one or both test back off.

[costlowj]

Sorry for the long delay in response, been working all day and night it seems lately.

I ran the manual test, if I didn't go long enough between tests let me know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1ZY-9jLt-0