Washer not spinning

[vee8power]

I made that same mistake my first time with these. You got it to lock at the beginning by pushing the button when all the green lights are off. After that, you just zoomed right past it. In manual mode, it will start with all the lights off; leave it there or turn the dial until it gets back there. Hit the button and it will lock. leave it locked and turn the dial to an agitate or spin mode and push the button. The washer must be locked in order to agitate or spin, even in diagnostic.  

[16345Ed]

You need to lock the lid before agitate and spin tests can be performed. 

Get into manual test mode, with all status lights OFF press start button and lid should lock. 

Then perform tests. 

[costlowj]

Hello everyone, 

I should have known better that if it is a manual test, I would MANUALLY have to lock the lid lol. Just had a moment I guess 

I have redone the manual test(s) with the lid locked. Here is the video:

Thanks again for all the help so far. 

 

[costlowj]

Just wanted to give another update and thank everyone for their help again.

I have went and bought a used washer from a local company that sells fixed/refurbished washers with a 60 day warranty. Got a Kenmore 500 or 800 series, can't remember. I do know it's old enough to not be HE.

They will deliver the "new" washer and haul this one off. I guess they will  use for parts or fix and resale. Thanks again for all the help.

[lvasquez11]

I just had one that would int not spin out. i pulled on each wire going thur the zip ties near motor.

found three broken wires at a zip tie 

[lvasquez11]

[16345Ed]

This one spins and agitates. He ran manual tests successfully. 

Im scratching my head. 

[lvasquez11]

This unit would work intermittently.  i had replaced actuator 6 months prior . 

sometimes it would fail sensing or fail to spin.

Once i pulled on wire harness i was able to find fault 

[16345Ed]

Great info. I'll be on the lookout for those wires in the future on these. 

Thanks!

[costlowj]

Thanks for the info. I looked again and didn't see any issues with the wires, they all seemed to be in tact.

The washer is gone now, thanks for everyone's help. My "new" to me Kenmore 110.29522801 came yesterday.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The thing is with the broken wires on these machines is you can't see it by just looking.  The actual copper conductor wire is broken inside the plastic wire jacket.

You only find it by pulling on the wires near the tie points and see the plastic jacket shrink down or actually break when pulled because the wire inside is no longer connected together.

[16345Ed]

Or continuity test?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Sometimes a continuity test doesn't do it either unless you are pulling along the wire length while meter is connected between both ends of wire because the small strands inside jacket are still touching but separate when washer is working from the stress and vibration.

[micabay]

I was hoping he would check out the fault codes one more time.  With the symptoms shown, I would often get an F1 E2 Motor control fault.  There would be a bulging & ozing capacitor on the main board (also the motor control)  Machine would spin in auto and manual tests, but not during actual user cycles.

[16345Ed]

Interesting. Shows to go ya why eyeballs on board is important.