ge model PFCS1RKZSS NO ICE

[keithds115]

need help on this ge refrigerator  french door  bottom freezer . i am a tech from connectiut . i went to customer house with  the complaint of  no ice . . this refrig has its own ice room in the refrig door . i tred to put the old icemaker into a test mode  . would not advance . . replaced ice maker  put in test mode worked fine . cust said made ice for 2 weeks then stopped . went out to house noticed tray had some ice  in it  but some were melted . i replaced ice maker told cust give 24 to 48 hours to start ice production .i was a little concerned that the ice room was not really that cold . . cust called back said still no ice . i asked cust to check temp in ice room .. looking at parts break down they show a area in the freezer where  you would think a blower would be to direct cold air into the ice room , duct is shown but no motor , i checked several sites . they only show the housing but no motor . i believe they force  cold air from the evap coils up the vent to the ice room . we are not set up with ge  so i dont have any service information to work with . or anyone to talk to . . not sure the blower motor is bad if they use one or a bad main board, if anyone can help me here would be of big help . thanks keith

[Hiroshi]

It is confusing because this is not a GE in the traditional sense, it is a Samsung in GE clothing... There should be what is called an Ice Room fan next to the evaporator fan. I believe there may be an 'H' missing from your model number?  Part number: AP5736519 is the funky little fan that should feed the duct up to the Ice Room.

[AlboGator]

Ever get the solution to this? Having a similar issue. 

[MrAdvantage]

Was it the fan?!

[Ebar]

I was wondering if anyone came up with anything new on this issue.

I'm dealing with one now, I've replaced the fan twice. It has 13.5 volts at the board and at the fan connector.

When i plug the new fan up it will run sometimes and sometimes it will  just rock back and fourth.

When I first went to the home it was warm in the ice maker box water in tray and no fan running.

When i have returned it has made a couple of trays of ice but not what it should.

Thanks for any help.

[Ebar]

Pulling my hair out on this one, Thank God these are few and far between.

So when I first went to this call ice maker box  temp was around 30

Fan was not running light air flow from return side, went to the control board had 13.5 vdc

sold customer on fan replacement. Installed new fan it started and ran no problem.

Next day no fan no ice. Went out checked voltage at the fan connector 13.5 replaced fan again

It would run for a bit and then it would rock back and forth, went back to the board  checked voltage

still 13.5  After reaching out for help here I replaced the control board still no fan doing the same as before.

I can manually harvest the ice maker it seems to be working fine it is just not getting to temp for harvest.

customer said after i put the second fan on, it made two trays of ice. If the ice maker box had a lower temp

I would say possible ice maker. I thought maybe the box has a thermister but if so I can find it or anything on it.

Any help I am thanking you in advance for, I'm not the guy that gives up and I don't like throwing parts at something

without reason. 

[Hiroshi]

The icemaking routine on these Samsung machines is fundamentally different than US brands have always operated... here is the section in a fast-track manual explaining the difference:

FREEZER TEMPERATURE CONTROL BY THE ICE MAKER
Interior Temperature of the freezer will be set to -14 degrees
Fahrenheit until the ice bucket is full. When the ice bucket is full,
the freezer will maintain original set temperature. Also, whenever
the ice is used, the freezer will again set to -14 degrees
Fahrenheit. Selecting "Ice Off” will allow the freezer to be controlled
by the set temperature. If water is not hooked up, the
freezer will always be at –14 unless “Ice Off” is selected

So, the icemaker unit itself is the initiator of the temp changes within the ice room and must be considered in the list of suspects- (fan, thermistors, icemaker and main control board.)

Here is the excerpt pertaining to the DC motors:

Brushless DC Fan motors are used to save energy. The fans operate at two speeds. Fan speed information is read by
the Main PCB. If the fan speed exceeds 600 RPM or the speed is too slow, or stopped the fan drive circuit is disabled,
After 10 seconds the circuit tries again with 3 seconds of DC voltage. If the fan continues this activity for 5 cycles, 10
seconds off 3 seconds on, the fan drive circuit is disabled for 10 minutes.
TO TEST THE FAN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE.
Power off and back on to check the DC voltage to the motor, wait from 10 to 60 seconds for the fan voltage to kick in,
and then check fan voltage, the average reading is 9 VDC. If you get 3 seconds of voltage every 10 seconds for the 5
fan power up cycles, then the Main PCB is good.
NOTE: You may need to put unit in FORCED FREEZE mode to activate the fans/compressor.
If the fan blade is blocked by ice, then defrost and check the motor again, after removing power from the unit.
If the evaporator is ice blocked and thus blocking the air flow, the fan will over RPM and will be stopped. Remove ice
and check the motor again. If everything is clear around the fan blade then the motor would be at fault. Continuous fan
errors will be displayed on the front panel display. PLEASE NOTE: The door switches control the evaporator fan motors.
Have them closed to test the motors. Delay time 10 – 60 seconds.

Forced Mode: Press the Pwr Freeze– Fridge
buttons simultaneously for 8-12 seconds
(No sound when both buttons are pressed
at the same time) until the display beeps
and goes blank.

Edited June 19, 2017 by Hiroshi

[AlboGator]

I've hidden a response here because I mixed up the models. Being an old post I didn't double check the model number and thought we were talking about a the GE built unit that came after the ScamSon built units. If you did read it disregard it about the control board.