Ge profile gss25xsrdss has me puzzled

[jlaztech]

ill begin by saying that this fridge is not responding at all. Just the interior lights are working. Both dispenser and temperature touch pads displays wont light up. I checked voltage to the frigde and i get 120vac and also at the main board i get120vac. I dont know what to test next. Can someone please aid me in reviving this refrigerator?

[DurhamAppliance]

sounds like a load failure in the dc circuit..... see what happens if you disconnect the j2 connector from the board.   If everything comes on  but fan motors,  then you have a failed evap or condenser fan motor interfering with the dc circuit.

[jlaztech]

so i thought  the main board ran on ac not dc voltage. So why cant i get the displays to work? can a a shorted fan motor disrupt the main board and actually destroy it?

 

[QualityMike]

if the Refrigerator is cooling and controls arent responding, check the three wire connector under the freezer door, it comes out the bottom of the freezer door and connects on a long wire harness to the main board. if its hard to disconnect and you see corrosion, that could be the culprit, i use wire nuts and silicone grease to prevent corrosion, but if you need to take the freezer door off in the future to move the fridge, youll have to rewire it. if the fridge is not cooling, suspect the main board, check the board for ruptured or "popped" capacitors.

[DurhamAppliance]

Interface connection and dispenser connections are on separate molex connectors so,  although possible, it is highly unlikely that the problem is at the hinge..unless there is a short causing dc circuit failure... i have yet to see this but it doesn't hurt to check.  

With regards to the board,  it receives ac and runs ac loads such as heaters, lights, compressor,  water valve etc.from 1/2 of the board.   Ac is converted to dc for the board to run fans,  sensors,  interface and inverter commands if applicable on the other half.  The j2 connector is located on the dc half of the board.   Removing the j2 connector is a quick way to see if fans are interferring with the dc circuit which is a very common problem. 

If nothing presents itself maybe try reseating j1 connector at the board.. otherwise a new board is in order. 

 

Btw Mike,  I suggest using crimped bell connectors instead of wire nuts.  the connection is stronger to handle the stress on the wires (dispenser wires),  especially those located at the bottom hinge.  Many techs solder them but I've had no problems using crimped connections. 

[QualityMike]

2 minutes ago, DurhamAppliance said:

Btw Mike,  I suggest using crimped bell connectors instead of wire nuts.  the connection is stronger to handle the stress on the wires (dispenser wires),  especially those located at the bottom hinge.  Many techs solder them but I've had no problems using crimped connections. 

ive had more problems with crimpped connectors than wire nuts, i use zip ties after wire nutting to take any stress off the actual wire nut connection. the right length of stripped wire and size of wire nut it critical to get this right. thx.

[DurhamAppliance]

probably more of a function of improper crimping.

[QualityMike]

I agree with you. i have never crimped, just to be clear, i was refering to following other techs that have used crimped connectors, i think wire nuts are more idiot proof as i see less bad connections with them, (but have seen bad connections with them, of course), but ive never had a recall on a wire nut ive put on, so i think ill stick to what i know works for me. the more difficult ones are when the wires are high gauge, very thin, like for sensors, or short wires too. 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

32 minutes ago, DurhamAppliance said:

I suggest using crimped bell connectors instead of wire nuts.  the connection is stronger to handle the stress on the wires

True dat! 

26 minutes ago, QualityMike said:

ive had more problems with crimpped connectors than wire nuts,

 

4 minutes ago, DurhamAppliance said:

probably more of a function of improper crimping.

Gotta be-- properly done crimps are much more reliable than wire nuts IF done with the proper tool... http://amzn.to/1Ot9smx

For hinge wires subject to movement, I'll relieve stress with electrical tape, not zip ties. Zip ties can eventually cut through the wire insulation with repetitive movement. 

[QualityMike]

4 minutes ago, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

Zip ties can eventually cut through the wire insulation with repetitive movement. 

i agree, and i always test to make sure that any wire bundle has enough slack so theres no stress put on the zip tie. i find electrical tape over time with heat can come loose.

Edited May 14, 2016 by QualityMike

[Chat_in_FL]

53 minutes ago, DurhamAppliance said:

Interface connection and dispenser connections are on separate molex connectors so,  although possible, it is highly unlikely that the problem is at the hinge..unless there is a short causing dc circuit failure... i have yet to see this but it doesn't hurt to check.  

With regards to the board,  it receives ac and runs ac loads such as heaters, lights, compressor,  water valve etc.from 1/2 of the board.   Ac is converted to dc for the board to run fans,  sensors,  interface and inverter commands if applicable on the other half.  The j2 connector is located on the dc half of the board.   Removing the j2 connector is a quick way to see if fans are interferring with the dc circuit which is a very common problem. 

If nothing presents itself maybe try reseating j1 connector at the board.. otherwise a new board is in order. 

 

Btw Mike,  I suggest using crimped bell connectors instead of wire nuts.  the connection is stronger to handle the stress on the wires (dispenser wires),  especially those located at the bottom hinge.  Many techs solder them but I've had no problems using crimped connections. 

Agreed:

Does Continuity exist between:

Main Control Board J4-1 to Dispenser Board J4-1?

Main Control Board J4-2 to Dispenser Board J4-2?

Main Control Board J4-3 to Dispenser Board J4-3?

Main Control Board J4-4 to Dispenser Board J4-4?

Main Control Board J4-5 to Dispenser Board J4-5?

[QualityMike]

measure J4-2 to J4-3, see if you are getting in the neighborhood of 13 volts DC, if its significantly less, boards failed and has to be replaced.

on 2nd look, durham, i agree that probability is low for connector at hinge being as likely as board.

its funny how the schematic shows "comm" for j4-1  communication and "comm" for j4-3 common

Edited May 14, 2016 by QualityMike

[DurhamAppliance]

thanks guys... i said j1 but meant j4....... since it's like the first connector... reading from top left to right my brain always thinks j1 instead of j4

[jlaztech]

ok thanks for the suggestions and i also have a follow up question

Say one or both fan motors have shorted or maybe even the wires, what would then happen to the main board. Correct me if i'm wrong but wouldn' t it fry the board.

And then the same thing would happen to the replacement board unless the short was repaired first. Boards are expensive and non refundable once paid for

[QualityMike]

10 hours ago, DurhamAppliance said:

The j2 connector is located on the dc half of the board.   Removing the j2 connector is a quick way to see if fans are interferring with the dc circuit which is a very common problem.. 

 

[jlaztech]

11 minutes ago, QualityMike said:

 

what exactly does interfering mean in this case ? why would they interfere with the board , cause they shorted out? so the result of this being that the board is still good and operational or is burnt and rendered useless. confusing to me please explain thanks

[DurhamAppliance]

On GE's a bad fan can take out a board... it's quite common.. you can sometimes tell be looking at the two resistors closest to the j2 connector... you may see one discolored. 

 

if a dc load, a bad evap fan for instance ,  is causing the problem,  then you certainly must replace the fan prior to replacing the board.  

Basically,  if removing the j2 connector solves your problem,  then you have to determine which fan is the culprit.  The best way is to introduce 9v dc directly to the fan to see if it runs smoothly.  If both fans run smoothly,  then the problem is the board itself. 

If removing j2 does nothing  then check voltage at j4.. if proper voltages at j4 then possibly an interface failure.  If voltages aren't correct as stated above  even with j2 removed,  then replace the biard

[Hiroshi]

Comparative diagnosis with a new main board is the fastest way to OZ on these GE fridges, takes seconds- and if the fans spring to life you have your answer, if they don't spring to life, you have another answer- Ive never had a bad fan blow a resistor faster than I could unplug the unit. New main board and 4 flat-nosed thermistors are the war package I carry for all these GE models. (an array of heaters with harness never hurt either.)

[DurhamAppliance]

swapping boards?  .... uh... no... Id rather test.. cheaper and faster in the long run.