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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
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      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
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      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
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Recommended Posts

doernbrackc
Posted

My Samsung RB195BSSW has the freezer below the fridge. I noticed that the freezer was very warm, probably close to 45-50 degrees and the bottom had an ice block. I took all the food out of the fridge part and removed the back panel. The drain under the fridge coil was frozen over so I took care of that first. After it was clear I put the fridge back together but the freezer never seemed to get cold. I then took the freezer apart and the coil was very frosted over. I broke free most of the frost but didn't completely defrost it. The fan is running which is also good. after putting things back together the freezer temp has dropped. I have set the temp to 0 and I watched the temp drop down to 0 but in my opinion it is not 0. My cheap meat thermometer tells me it's closer to 20. It's also worth nothing that the ice maker has made no ice which I think indicates it isn't cold enough. Did I make the mistake of not defrosting the coils well enough? I was thinking about taking it apart again and blasting it with a hair dryer. Thoughts?

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  • doernbrackc

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  • Hiroshi

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  • DurhamAppliance

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Posted

Defrosting the coils yourself is not likely to fix what caused the defrost failure. If you have a meter,I would test the thermal fuse located on the right side of the evaporator coil you have been defrosting, if it is 'open' you have your answer.  Part number: DA47-00095E

Part number: DA47-00095E
 

doernbrackc
Posted

Hiroshi, 

I am not certain, but my kids tend open the freezer a lot and leave it open for longer than I would like. I was thinking this might have caused the problem but I will do as you say. To check the fuse should I unclip it and then check continuity between the 2 contacts? Or do I need to leave it plugged in?

Posted

Disconnect it.  If it tests ok, you can mount it slightly higher than where it was to prevent insufficient defrost duration due to the snesor being too close to the heater. Some of the older model thermal fuses have 4-wires with two components in a plastic sleeve, the fuse is the one that looks like a big metal diode with wires coming out of opposite ends-  The kids leaving the door open overnight or for several hours would cause your symptom, but 5 extra minutes here and there shouldn't be insurmountable for the defrost system.

doernbrackc
Posted

well it definitely got left open for about 8hours when we left for work a few weeks ago.

Posted (edited)

you have to check bimetal while it's still cold or blast it with cold air if testing using that method.  Samsungs ate designed to test everything at the board....  check resistance at connector 70  pin 13 and 7... If bimetal is bad,  no continuity. A resistance reading there can also determine if you have a bad heater or a bad freezer drain heater.  The heaters are in parallel and in series with the bimetal.    From the board you  can also test evap thermistor which is the culprit many times.    

Leaving the door open can cause your problem and it is imperative that you remove all frost.... also check your drain tube and grommet under the fridge,  water pooled in your evap tray can be pulled up to the fan and freeze around it.  With a frozen fan,  your evap will also freeze over due to lack of circulating air. . 

I would suggest changing both the bimetal and thermistor if you determine is more than just a door open issue... they are cheap and it's just good maintenance practice for a homeowner particularly if you are already in the compartment.

 

BTW if the mainboard on this model is in the machine compartment.. it's a real pita to get to and following Hiroshi's advice may be more  practical  with the added condition  of changing sensor.     If you know how,  you can always initiate defrost at the interface and check heater operation... if heater works, then bimetal and heater are good. 

Edited by DurhamAppliance
doernbrackc
Posted

This was definitely an open door issue. After more inspection and melting of the ice and frost I found that there is a drain in bottom of this coil unit too. I should have known that after doing the fridge. My freezer is running like a champ now. Thanks for the insight. Saved a ton of money, hopefully someone else does too.

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