Kitchenaid KSSS42QJX00 warming again

[hcubed]

Kitchenaid KSSS42QJX00 circa 2000

 

Previously, the refrigerator started to get warm on both sides. I ended up replacing the evap timer and evap heater element. All was great for 3 weeks. Both sides started to warm up (freezer from around 0F to 26F) and refrigerator from (35F to 43F). The condenser fan is running but the condenser coils are not hot at all. The air blowing past the compressor is slightly warm. The evaporator fan is running. I removed the evaporator coil cover and there was no frost on them. 8 hours later, there was frost building up on the first couple of rows. The compressor seems to be running (used a screwdriver to listen and got a hum).

I am know thinking that in my repair of the evaporator heater, I bent the evap lines and potentially created a leak.

Any suggestions?

[Hiroshi]

The fact that the frost pattern is not equal across the entire evaporator coil tubing is proof you are losing refrigerant . Why did you replace the heater? I have seen calrod heaters last 50 years, that was a needless risk, my friend- never replace parts you cannot prove the failure of!   

[hcubed]

3 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

The fact that the frost pattern is not equal across the entire evaporator coil tubing is proof you are losing refrigerant . Why did you replace the heater? I have seen calrod heaters last 50 years, that was a needless risk, my friend- never replace parts you cannot prove the failure of!   

I replaced the heater because the lower right hand corner was corroded and rotted away. The heater element was a giant open circuit.

 

[Hiroshi]

Darn! that sucks, but the fact remains that the frost pattern means you are bleeding R134a

[hcubed]

My thoughts exactly. The real question is if this is the source of my problems, leak in the evaporator tubing, what is the expected cost to fix that? I assume that it includes replacing the entire evaporator coil assembly, cutting out the old one and soldering(?) in the new one and refilling the system. Based upon the unit being 16 years old, I am more inclined to replace it even though it is a built-in and more $$$s.

 

[Hiroshi]

Yeah, at this point, compressor and the evaporator would be replaced- it would be risky to spend 800+ on a new evaporator based on a 16 year old compressor... repair would still be less than replacement, and keep in mind, the newer the machine the worse the sealed systems seem to be.

[lvasquez11]

I've seen leaks due to defrost heating burning hole on evaporator - leat from heat exchanger - drain pan heater loop leak

On these units i do complete system - compressor-heat exchanger - evaporator - drain loop n defrost heater due to how difficult to change

chicagoland area - blue book average labor  900 -  1300  plus parts 

 

[hcubed]

Quote

Thanks for the reply. Replacing the defrost heater was pretty straight forward but never having done it before, I didn't know the gotcha of potetnially kinking up the tubing. Base upon the age of the unit, I will most likely replace it. Which leads to another question - what brands should I be considering for a new built-in?

 

[Hiroshi]

Sub-Zero has a 13 year evaporator warranty, but the price is steep...

[hcubed]

Yes. I would love to be able to get the same fridge so I can re-use my cabinet panels but I doubt that Kitchenaid has the same thing after 16 years :-(

 

[hcubed]

It appears that the input to the evaporator coils is where the problem may lie. The small capillary connection to the evaporator aluminum(?) tubing connector was frosted over. I turned the entire fridge off, let things melt away and restarted it. The capillary-evaporator tube connection is starting to frost over. Just curious as to what potential failure mode I could have introduced with replacing the evaporator heater.