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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am getting an F7:E0 error code on my KitchenAid Oven.  Per my searches this appears to be related to a faulty latch assembly which is no longer available.  There appears to be a reference sheet from Whirlpool on this however I can't find it anywhere (seems to only be available to whirlpool techs). I also saw a couple of references to bypassing the latch switch however there are no details and my own experiments have so far not gotten me anywhere.

In particular I found the post "KitchenAid range/oven KESC307BWH3" in applianceguru.com promising but clicking on the links brought me here.  

At this point, I've inspected the switches and wiring and can't seem to find anything wrong.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Ron

 

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  • Hiroshi

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Posted

Pull all the connectors off of the main control and latch assembly parts and re-install them, (this often fixes a marginal connection) then use a meter to test the continuity of the microswitch portion of the latch assembly to be sure the button on the switch (or switches) is working. The lock solenoid should be at 270 ohms. If it all tests ok, but you continue to get the F7 error get the control re-built... The tech sheet for this says the "input switches won't follow their strobe level (shorted to ground)."

 

 

Posted

The door lock 9751439 is available on ebay.

 

Posted

Thx for the info.

So far everything has tested in spec so it looks like the latch is good.  It actually works (turn clean on, it latches, cancel it unlatches) so this wasn't surprising.

Everything is pointing to the control board at this point.

 

Posted

did you remove and re-connect the wiring at the board?

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