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LSR8233EQ0 Washer agitates and drains but won't spin


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Posted

My whirlpool washer agitates and drains but won't spin.  It makes an awful grinding noise when in spin cycle. Based on other threads, I replaced the clutch assembly and brake.  The brake was broken.  The clutch looked very bad and I could turn the inner clutch ring by hand inside the assembly.  The machine had been vibrating so much that one of the three bolts holding the transmission on had rattled off.  I also replaced the drive coupler because I bought it without realizing that the machine still agitated.  When I put everything back together, it agitates and drains and started to spin with the horrible noise and then stopped spinning while the horrible metal on metal noise continued until the cycle was complete.  Needless to say that what I had assumed would be a sure victory has turned into frustration and lack of understanding.

I have been advised that it could be that the drive block is worn, but I think that would mean no agitation as well as no spinning.  Also been advised that it could be the tub bearing, but again I think that would also mean no agitation.

What say you?  

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  • T6Driver

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  • Budget Appliance Repair

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  • Hiroshi

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Posted

You need to bypass the lid switch and run a spin cycle with the cabinet off so you can what the clutch bell.  If the clutch bell is spinning then you may have a stripped drive block, (I doubt that is your problem from the description).

If clutch bell isn't spinning and you're hearing a horrible grinding noise then bad transmission - spin gear stripped out, (that's what it sounds like from your description).

Posted

Stripped main drive gear usually sounds more like an angry frog under 10 gallons of used motor oil, to me, not what I would characterize as metal on metal... Collapsed drive block would not affect agitate, but the spin tub rubbing the outer washtub would also be a metal to plastic sound... You may need a new basket drive, which is the assembly the brake is mounted on, but I would definitely drop the transmission, separate the wash and spin tubs, and get a good clear view of what is grinding! You need a spanner wrench to remove the spin tub spanner nut, it may sound like a nightmare, but these direct drive washers are worth the trouble and you will be expert in repairing the unit after this adventure. If you have metal to metal, there should be a dust and flake trail to follow to ground zero. 

 Part number: TB123A  Spanner Wrench

Part number: TB123A 

Part number: w10820043 Basket Drive

Part number: w10820043

Posted

After not being separated for 18 years, it took some persistence to get the inner tub out.  The drive block was actually stuck inside the inner tube because of corrosion and gun buid-up.  After cleaning the drive block enough to distinguish the notches, I realize that the drive block is not the problem.  Wife/mother of my six daughters is not enjoying life without a washing machine.  I do not enjoy cleaning their hair and the gunk that collects on it from all of the hidden parts of the washer.  I told her that it is too bad that it isn't Mother's Day weekend because she might be getting a new washing machine (she might get one anyway).  I will investigate the transmission and drive assembly tomorrow.  As the parts get more expensive, I become more reluctant to fix the old machine.  If it is just the main gear...

Posted

I saw a video online of a guy drive the transmission with his drill motor instead of the washer motor to demonstrate how the two-way operation of the transmission works.  That helped quite a bit in my understanding of diagnosing the transmission and what Willie is talking about.  I am going to try this tomorrow.  Thank you for your help Willie and Hiroshi.  

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