Refrigerator compressor only runs once

[robbchief]

Having problems with my frig.  I often find it is not cooling properly but the condenser fan is running and the condenser coils are clean.  If I unplug and plug it back in the compressor does not come on.  If I unplug for 30-60 min and plug in the compressor will come on and cool the frig for several hours and then it will cut off and not come back on. 

Any suggestions on how to fix?

I've noticed the compressor gets really hot when its been running for a while.  What is normal operating temp?

Thanks!

 

[DurhamAppliance]

 

Without a model number (what's up with that?)  I can only speak in general terms.

you have a failed start winding in either the compressor or the relay/start device.  What's happening is your compressor starts up when there is no or little head pressure.   The pressure dissipates over time when the compressor isn't running.  Once pressure has reduced you can start up the compressor. 

Once running,  pressure builds... when your set temperatures have been satisfied,  your compressor turns off. Fridge temp increases,  calls for more cooling and tries to start up the compressor.  This cycle isn't sufficient to allow the pressure to dissipate so amperage increases to force the compressor to run but then the start device cuts the power off to allow more pressure to dissipate... after a few minutes you will hear the click of another attemp... this clicking continues until the pressure equalizes and the compressor starts up.    

 If the compressor doesn't  start,  the heat generated by increased amperage causes the compressor to become extremely hot.  Eventually either the compressors thermal protection will prevent the compressor from running or the startup protocol times out.  

 When the pressure equalizes over time,  unplugging and plugging the fridge back in will start the compressor. 

Try changing  your start device..... the fridge will start up... ie no head pressure... so to test,  let fridge run for a minute or two... build pressure,  unplug and immediately (before pressure dissipates)  plug fridge back in.    It will go through the clicking cycle I previously described. .  hopefully the compressor will start up in 5 minutes or so.   If so... you will be okay.... if not,  probably bad compressor. 

[Hiroshi]

This machine might benefit from a hard start device... Supco URCO410 is probably fine (no model number)- if the compressor hasn't seized, then this part will probably get you enough time to be worth it's purchase price.

[DurhamAppliance]

Model number is important but if standard,  I would recommend using manufacturers relay first if available...   .  Although oem cost more, it's worth spending the extra money to know for sure... it also eliminates any problems with wiring and pin orientation you may have with the urco41 .      If you have no choice but to get a 3 in 1, use the Supco pro41 push on. No splicing,  can easily switch back to original style... may or may not have to change a terminal and  no need to determine start pin - run pin orientation. 

Edited June 20, 2016 by DurhamAppliance

[Hiroshi]

Pro41 doesn't have the highly beneficial start capacitor though! I HAVE used the Pro41 in cockroach infested machines that I wanted to fix in less than 30 seconds... 

[robbchief]

Wow guys, thanks for all the feedback. This is great info.

This is a GE DSS25KGRC BB frig.  Sorry I didn't provide earlier.

I checked the resistance (I think, ohms right?) pins on compressor with a multi-meter and they seem to be correct.  None were zero.  They were like 13, 7 and 6.  I also check the amp pull on the wire connected to the relay and it was around 0.8 after running all day.

Can I use the multimeter to check anything to verify if my problem is the compressor or the start device?

 

[lvasquez11]

pull control out n check for burnt area on back of it 

Part number: WR55X10942

[DurhamAppliance]

On 6/20/2016 at 3:14 PM, Hiroshi said:

Pro41 doesn't have the highly beneficial start capacitor though! I HAVE used the Pro41 in cockroach infested machines that I wanted to fix in less than 30 seconds... 

but I wouldn't go with the urc unless the oem or a pro41 can't start it. 

  Failed relay.on the board rarely exhibits the symptoms described here.  But it's easy to check without taking out the board.   Check voltage at the relay when compressor isn't running.  If voltage is present,  board isn't the issue.  You can also check voltage at the board  j8 to j7-9 as there are times when a board can fail yet see no visible signs. 

[robbchief]

So I need to try an OEM relay for the DSS25KGRC, then a Pro41 and lastly a URC.  Is this the right OEM part?

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-5sp-overload-ptc-wr09x10107-ap3884299.html

Should I also replace the capacitor?  I saw some people say a bad capacitor can cause the compressor to run hot.  Mine definitely feels hot.

 

[robbchief]

I replaced the start relay but continue to have the same problem.   The fridge will run fine for a few days and then the compressor just stops running with the fan until I unplug for 30-45 min.

[lvasquez11]

You need to check if power at compressor is still present. 

[robbchief]

Sorry for my ignorance, what's the best way to do that?

[DurhamAppliance]

Fan in the freezer stops running as well? 

several methods to test for voltage... do you have a meter? 

 

[robbchief]

No, the condenser fan and freezer fan are both running but the compressor is not.  Yes, I have a clamp meter but very little electrical experience.

[DurhamAppliance]

As I previously suggested,  check ac voltage by placing your probes on  j8 and j7 pin 9 on the mainboard... What do you get? 

[robbchief]

Thank you so much for your help!  I checked the board and found the J8 label on the upper left side but couldn't find J7.  J9 was right below J8 but there was no voltage between the two.  Where should J7 be?  I wasn't sure what the "pin 9" part meant?  Sorry I'm so ignorant with this stuff.  I really appreciate you helping me learn!

I went ahead and checked the back of the board while I was there and didn't see any burned spots.

[vee8power]

It is a little confusing.  J8, J9, and J11 are single wire connections. All 3 are in a connector together, usually a  blue connector.

J7, however, refers to the whole connector of  9 wires on the same side of the board. You're looking for the 9th wire in that connection. I think  closest to the 3-wire blue connector; it may have a little N by it for neutral. The ninth pin or wire on the J7 connector.

[MD Home Services]

Since you've already replaced the start relay, sounds like your compressor is cutting out on overload. That or your control board is going bad. Jumper your board at line (J11) and comp (J8) when the compressor stops running. Those are the connectors (blue connector connected to three blade connector) right above J7. If your compressor starts then your board is bad. I reread your post and more than likely your board is bad. Jumper J8 and J11 and I bet you your compressor would start.

Edited July 25, 2016 by MD Home Services

[DurhamAppliance]

i agree,  if the compressor is shutting down when it gets hot,  probably overload or a a run winding that fails  when hot.  I experienced this same thing a couple of weeks ago. Compressor shut down when temps got around 25f...everything else tested fine.. power being sent to the compressor but  it still shut down..around 25f and compressor hot... amps were  slightly elevated right until shutdown then increased significantly and stopped.   During intial diagnostics,   compressor pin testing suggested a potential problem..  7ohm on start winding.. 3 ohms on run winding and 10 ohms across start and run.  

Although mathematically it was correct.. Ie  ab + cb =ac, the second part of the test,  which is sometimes forgotten ,  is  the start winding resistance and the run winding resistance  shouldn't  be too far apart.  Usually we see about a 2 ohm difference... that one had a 4 ohm difference.  I remembered the second part to the pin test but never encountered it in the field  so instead of condemning the compressor right then and there,  I spent several days testing everything to make sure.  Conclusion in my case,  failed compressor. 

In your case, as stated, confirm power is being sent to the compressor, if so, compressor failure. If no power then as Ivazquez suggeted earlier on,  bad board.

Edited July 25, 2016 by DurhamAppliance

[MD Home Services]

It does sound like the compressor is going out on overload but he says it runs for several hours before it cuts out. Like I said, jump the compressor at the board when it cuts out and if it doesn't run then you got a bad compressor. If it starts then it's your board that's bad.

[robbchief]

Yep, I jumped J8 and J11 and the compressor started. I got 1.2 volts between j8 and j7 pin 9 (Not sure I did this right). So it looks like my board is at fault, right?

[robbchief]

also can I jump it off as a temporary measure for  several hours or days at a time?

[MD Home Services]

Yes, your board is bad just as I suspected. Replace it.