GE Fridge Model PFCS1RKZA SS Temperature settings

[dunnright00]

Ok, so I think I have a lemon here...
This fridge has given me so many problems of the 4 years that I have had it.

Problems include water dispenser not working (99% sure it's not the lines freezing), replaced the Dual Water Inlet Valve because of leaking, and replacing the control board.

Now I think I need to replace the Interface Dispenser Assembly.

So, I have had the problem of the water dispenser not working for a while now. I thought it might be the water lines freezing as mentioned all over, but at one point it would work as long as I turned on the Kitchen sink faucet.
I know, sounds weird. But every time I would go to get water, if it didn't work, all I had to do was turn on the faucet and the water dispenser would start flowing.
This lasted about 3-4 months. About 2 months ago, even that stopped working.

10 months ago, it was leaking real bad and I discovered it was the dual water inlet valve. Replaced that easy...
Couple days ago it started leaking again, so I pulled the fridge out to look, and sure enough the valve is leaking again.
Turned the water off and ordered the part, then a few hours later I noticed the temp of the whole fridge is warming up.
I try to set the temp to 0 & 37, but each time I check the actual temp keeps getting higher.

Does this mean the interface and this control board are shot? Or maybe something else?

 

[dunnright00]

Update:

Now my wife says it's getting real warm here.

[dunnright00]

So.. Any tips on what might be causing the temperature to all of a sudden start going up?

Main control board? Interface assembly? Something else?
Or too many options without more info?

[dunnright00]

Is there a diagnostic test I can do? Like pressing the Water/Cubed/Crushed buttons all at once?

[Hiroshi]

Job one is clarification: Are both sections warming or just the fridge section?

 " I noticed the temp of the whole fridge is warming up.
I try to set the temp to 0 & 37, but each time I check the actual temp keeps getting higher. "

If it is both, the next question is: Is the compressor running? (you may have to lay a hand on it to tell)

[dunnright00]

Yes, both sections.

First noticed that it was the freezer, but then the temperature readings showed that both sections were warming.

I have the fridge turned off right now, but I will pug in a and check the compressor when I get home.

[dunnright00]

When I turn it on the condenser fan starts running.

Other than that I can't tell if the compressor is running or not. I put my hand on it while it's off & on and notice no difference.

[dunnright00]

Actually, if I place my hand on the compressor and then turn the fridge on, I feel a brief bit of movement. For about 1 second and then nothing.

This happens ever time I turn it on.

[dunnright00]

So, how can I tell if the compressor is running or not?

[Hiroshi]

Parts list shows this model as having an inverter board as the compressor start device... If this machine is room temperature, the compressor should kick on and rev to high speed for a period, then stay at an elevated RPM as it tries to pull the temperatures down to the set points, it should definitely not just turn back off! The main board should send 120V to the inverter through the larger connector, and like 3-6vDC through the smaller signal connection, if I recall. On this type of compressor you can Ohm test the three pins and should get an equal resistance between any two pin combination. If the inverter has 120v and the compressor pins(windings) readings are good, you need an inverter board. The best priced inverter is this one:  Part number: WR49X10283

 

These inverter compressors can run at very low RPM and be hard to detect life from, but they should almost always be 'on,' and most certainly should be 'on' when the machine is not at the correct temperature, so this is where I would begin my investigations 

[dunnright00]

So, for a follow up, we've been doing without as I have been away with work and haven't had the time.

I have an appliance tech coming out to look at it today. If this is the problem, I can probably do this myself?
What should I expect for parts and labor if I decide to let them do it?

I'm pretty capable at the work, just not good at the diagnosis part 

[Hiroshi]

Yeah, you could easily connect the inverter, but it is slightly bad form to let the tech do the hard part of diagnosis and "burn" him on the easier bit of installing the parts... I wouldn't pay much more than $300 bones for this repair (Service call $80, labor $40, inverter costs $177.05). 

[dunnright00]

This place waves the service call ($70) if they end up doing the work, which as long as it's not outrageous I'm totally willing to pay for.

I like doing the work, just haven't had the time to try and figure out the problem.

Either way I'll report back with the findings...

 

 

[dunnright00]

Ok, so... Update!

It was the inverter board as mentioned above.
BTW, I found this excellent link/video of diagnosing the problem and replacing the part. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq1jBtjjiFY

So, the tech was there about 5 minutes and stated that this is what the problem was.
Then said it would be $595 for parts and labor ($69 service call included).

Sorry if it's bad form, but I said thanks for the help and then ordered the part myself.

Quick & easy install... Thanks!

Now that my beer is nice and cold, didn't there used to be a button or link to donate to the beer fund?

 

[Hiroshi]

CHOKE! 595? Wow, you did the right thing in installing it yourself at that price, glad you got to the bottom of it!