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Al T

DCS RG 304 Gas Range Oven Not Heating Properly?

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Al T

The oven on our DCS RG-304 Gas Range (using Propane) is not heating properly. The top burners and broiler seem to be working fine. The oven bake burner igniter is heating up to glowing quickly when the oven is set to a bake temperature. After about 6 minutes the gas will kick on and light. After a few minutes of firing the gas will go off, but apparently short of the desired temperature, and the oven (preheating) lamp doesn't go off. At some point the gas seems to kick back on, but either doesn't light again or lights low and switches back off.

I've followed the troubleshooting guide as best I could through the first few stage - igniter working, power flowing to the thermostat (I think - I borrowed a volt/ohm meter but wasn't entirely sure I was touching all the right connections to test power and continuity). I started to remove the service access panel to test the thermal valve but the panel was getting hard to remove and I wanted to get some advice first.

From all I've read, it seems that the igniter is getting amps but not enough to keep the gas valve open? The ignitor part number is 211541P and takes 3.2 - 3.7 amps and costs around $100. I ordered a Frigidaire 5303935066 which has same appearance, says it has same Amp range, and was about $20. Will this work? Will it fry quickly? Other advice on likely problem?

One update: I got an amp meter and tried to test it and after I tried that it appears that the igniter burned out completely. Is that co-incidence or did my errant manner of checking with the meter somehow burn it out?

NB: I am on an island off the Maine Coast, so in-person service is a real problem! 

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leamy

I have used the frigidare and it works correctly

 

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Al T

Thanks. I got the part and installed but it appears there is no power going to the ignitor? There is no response from the ignitor (no glow at all) when the oven is turn on. I touched a volt meter to the connections and got nothing. I switched the wires, for good measure (even though the forums say which wire is which from ignitor does not matter) and still got nothing? Help?

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Hiroshi

Hopefully you didn't short the gas valve and nuke it! 

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Al T

How do I tell if I did? If I did, what then?

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Hiroshi

If the old igniter was shorted while you were testing it, as in, you touched it to something while it was energized- there is a good chance the gas valve is now blown. The valve should have continuity, if not, you will be ordering a new one. DCS is horrible when it comes to parts searches, so don't be discouraged when the model # doesn't work as well as other brands...

 

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Al T

thanks. Can you tell me how to reach that gas valve to test it? It is very hard to pull the stove out and I can't tell from all the schematics whether I can reach it by removing a front facing panel (e.g. behind the burners) or whether it has to be accessed from the back?

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Al T

Hiroshi - I'm on a remote island off the Maine coast and very hard to get help out here (and a small fortune). If you think you could walk me through the repair successfully (testing the valve, consulting on ordering the right one if that's the problem, troubleshooting the installation) I'd be willing to provide some compensation. My email is jalexanderthier@gmail.com

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Hiroshi

No need for that Al, if you feel like spending cash, upgrade your membership, the purpose of this place is for walkthroughs. You just need to go nice and easy to avoid shorting live igniters and such! I will e-mail you, then you can send me an image of that wiring diagram, once we know what terminals to test, figuring out what is wrong will be a cinch. Is there a drawer or kick panel along the bottom of this unit?

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Al T

That's great. 

The manual that I've been working off of is here:

http://manuals.therrconline.com/rrcmanuals/Perfect Heat/rg - 10582rv2 .pdf

The schematic with the valve is on page 21. The Dual Thermal Gas Valve is item #12 on that drawing. I can't quite tell exactly where it is and what panels/plates need to be removed to access it. It looks to me to be up high - behind where the stove-top burner assembly is. There is an upright plate behind the burner assembly (viewed from the front) which has about 8 screws - some hidden behind the burner assembly - so not super easy to access/remove - but likely possible is that's how I need to reach the gas valve. 

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Al T

Good news and bad news. I removed that metal plate panel and the gas valve was behind it. I turned off the power and tested both the broiler and the oven terminals with the continuity function on the mutli-meter and the broiler side reads 2-3 and the oven side is dead. looking at the set though it looks like I'm going to have to pull out the stove to replace that - right? Also not sure if I need any special tools for all that - I've got a pretty simply set out here?

 

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Hiroshi

just some wrenches to loosen the gas connections... a bit of pipe thread compound approved for GAS (be sure not to apply thread compound to compression fittings) and then wait for the new valve to arrive! Shut off the gas supply, disconnect the least amount of fittings you can in order to install the new valve, and then re-assemble to test bake function... You shall be your own Tech   :beatnik:

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