Should Basket and Agitator both spin LSQ8543JQ1

[N9ZN-Extra]

RE: Whirlpool Washing Machine model LSQ8543JQ1.

 

When washing clothes I have noticed the basket turns in one direction and the rotation of the basket is boosted with each movement of the Agitator in the same direction the basket is spinning.

Should this be occurring? I do not recall washing machines doing this in the past. If I remember correctly the washer basket was stationary during a wash cycle and only the agitator rotated back and forth.

Could something be wrong with my washer?

[evaappliance]

You could have a bad transmission ,  is it in the spin cycle when this is happening?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

This is NOT a transmission problem.

This is a good old Direct Drive Whirlpool.  When the washer is off you shouldn't be able to turn the spin basket by hand very easily.  If it turns easily by hand with no feel of the brakes holding and the basket indexes with the agitator when it is agitating then there is a problem with the brakes on the basket drive assembly.

You will have to pull the transmission and check the brakes to see why they aren't holding, (grease on brakes, lining broken/worn off brakes, brake spring broken or brake cam locked with brakes released).

This is the complete new basket drive and brake assembly that you may need:

Part number: W10820043

[evaappliance]

5 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

 

This is NOT a transmission problem.

This is a good old Direct Drive Whirlpool.  When the washer is off you shouldn't be able to turn the spin basket by hand very easily.  If it turns easily by hand with no feel of the brakes holding and the basket indexes with the agitator when it is agitating then there is a problem with the brakes on the basket drive assembly.

You will have to pull the transmission and check the brakes to see why they aren't holding, (grease on brakes, lining broken/worn off brakes, brake spring broken or brake cam locked with brakes released).

This is the complete new basket drive and brake assembly that you may need:

 

 

you are 100% correct , i misread his post , sorry!!

[N9ZN-Extra]

Thank you top all!

 

This is exactly what I presumed may be the problem (brake system) letting the basket spin while agitating. You are correct, when the machine is off the basket spins easily by hand. I do apologize for my lousy description of the problem, it was not very clear that the basket was turning while in the wash agitation cycle.

 

Looks like I have a washing machine to sell since it is worth less or about the same as the part. :-(

[N9ZN-Extra]

After thoughts...

Everything about this machine is good except for frequently going out of balance during spin cycles, usually when very few items are washed. I have had some concerns the out of balance problem could cause the fill pressure tube to pop off or otherwise make the machine leak a lot of water onto the floor. (Read about this problem in comments from others with the same machine.)

 

Do you think this machine is worth repairing? It has no rust, is clean all over, motor is strong, spin is fast and timer seems to be very good, and other than  the brake issue everything seems to be working well. Maybe I should also be asking if replacing the basket drive will help the machine to not get into an out of balance situation with small loads (seems irrelevant but I am not an expert)?

If there is a known way to solve the frequent out of balance issue we would love to know what it might be.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Even if you had to pay someone to fix this and it cost you $200-$300 you would have a machine that will outlast just about any of the junk on the market now days.

The out of balance with small loads may not be an actual problem with the machine, with a small load you don't get enough distribution of clothing, all can get to one side and it will be out of balance.   Might also just need the set of three snubber pads that are between the triangle skate plate and the support/leg assembly.

[evaappliance]

If there is ANY way fix it !  As budget says , even if it cost as much as a cheap new one to do so. I have a lot of customers that wish they had after it is to late.  The only way to do better than the washer you have and it fixed is a newer used direct drive machine , or a brand new speed queen model awn432sp . ALL other options fall way short !

[Hiroshi]

get yourself some agit dogs, a drive couple, and some sandwiches, then tear into that venerable workhorse. I agree with Budget and Eva 100%.

[N9ZN-Extra]

GREAT TO HEAR MY AFTER THOUGHT IS HEADED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

As it is it seems it washes OK except for the rinse cycle leaving a lot of soap in clothes after it finishes. Something tells me that not only the wash but also rinse will be greatly improved with a new basket drive. My thinking is our should agitate more during those cycles removing dirt and soap better when the basket remains stationary.

Snubber Pads are not expensive and would be easy to replace at the same time as the Basket Drive assembly. If they help or not they will be new.

As for todays models of machines I think someone got on the greed craze (repair parts are overpriced) by building more complex designs that require much more maintenance. Those water saving machines and front loaders all seem to have numerous problems most of which are far more costly to repair than direct drive models. Leaking seals, faulty indirect drive systems, molding clothes / machine surfaces, a difficult near complete tear down and reassembly to repair many of the most common problems and the list goes on All of this does not take into account all the bending down to load and unload clothes, having to wash another load because something was forgotten before the machine started and smelly clothes from mold spores. The only things nice about newer models is they are computerized, and are artistically designed but nice does not always mean good.

Most washers and dryers are hidden in the home so we don't care how it looks. For us the important thing is how it washes and spin dries our clothing.

If parts remain available we usually repair what we have. The worst part of the repairs is getting the machine moved out of a tight space to a work place 6 feet away (I'm close to 70 - machine is in utility closet) but I still enjoy wrenching anything I can get my hands on. I also remembered this is one reason God gave us grand children, to lighten the load. Women are for washing, cleaning and cooking. You guessed it, I am good for infrequent repairs, messing things up and eating (mostly the latter two).

Thanks again everyone!

[evaappliance]

The government regulations does not help the new ones either !  Good luck on your repair . They have several u tube videos showing how to get into your machine the right way , please take the time to watch them if you can before you tackle it ?

[N9ZN-Extra]

I still do not know what to do... your advice is excellent but I ran into other troubling issues and information, maybe you can get me over this problem of not knowing what to do.

While looking for parts I read notes saying the machine brakes require some special brake tool that I can not find available anywhere.

I am also needing to replace the water inlet valve assembly for my PAV2300AWW Rev 12 washer and I can not tell which valve to order, several are listed but none are listed for a Rev. 12 machine. The valves I have seen are of a different revision than mine or have different parts numbers with no revision information available. Are they all interchangeable without other modifications? Something tells me it would be a BIG mistake to assume interchangeability, especially when motors for example are not interchangeable with out other specific parts like a wiring harness.

With the issues above I am wondering if I need other special tools?

What about the snubber pads are they affected by the Revision number issue also and do they require special tools (doubtful)?

If you guys know of anything else I will need please let me know. I only want to open and repair this thing one time, I am old and this is more difficult now then when I was young. I know there are plenty of repair people and many of them do not mind ripping off older citizens which is why I try to avoid using them. Sadly no one can tell the bad from the good until the damage has been done. If I can not fix this machine myself I simply can not afford to risk going to an appliance repair shop.

 

[evaappliance]

Sorry , have not heard of or needed a brake tool . The valve you need will be the one listed for revision 10 , you always use the revision number next lower than yours if yours is not called out ,but any universal whirlpool valve will work on your washer and be cheaper too 

[N9ZN-Extra]

evaappliance I have to say thank you and Budget Appliance Repair for your knowledge, tips and skills.

With this piece of information I am placing the orders for everything and this non-since will be over as soon as I get the repair done. As I write I am already getting parts lined up and trying to keep expenses at a minimum given the wide swings in parts cost vendor to vendor.

Sorry to take so long after your initial advice but I never forgot about you and what you had to tell me. This is why I came back to get my additional questions cleared up. The two of you are the only people I have found which offered the advice and confidence I needed to get after this little job feeling good about expectations.

Next thing you will hear from me is what happened after the repair started. Hopefully it will be a successful repair and not be a video of springs and parts flying resulting in objects sticking in walls and rolling around the floor. (humor struck)

Thank You for your advice!

[evaappliance]

hope it goes well !  I buy most of my parts from trible's appliance parts. it pays to shop around. 

[N9ZN-Extra]

On ‎2‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 9:24 AM, evaappliance said:

hope it goes well !  I buy most of my parts from trible's appliance parts. it pays to shop around. 

You and I both hoped it would go well. Unfortunately when I tool off the agitator I found there is no clip or spanner nut to remove. Instead the basket seems to be secured to something with four bolts about an inch or so outside the center post of the basket.

 

I purchased a spanner wrench for nothing I guess. Sure would be helpful if the companies who make these machines would at least keep parts the same as far as placing and removing them goes. I can not locate a video with a basket secured to the machine like mine is. What do I do now???

[N9ZN-Extra]

Since all of the videos for my model number PAV2300AWW (I rechecked the number) show a different way to loosen the control panel so it can be laid back on the machine I am wondering if the parts I purchased to make my repairs will even fit this machine?

Could someone have put a control panel on a machine of a different model number? Note the model number is on the control panel rear near the top left side. If all but the control panel is a different model how would I be able to tell?

GETTING REALLY WORRIED FAST NOW !

[N9ZN-Extra]

I just noticed I began this topic discussing a whirlpool washer. That machine is junked and long gone because the transmission was to expensive to replace.

I now have a Maytag PAV2300AWW. I bet the Basket Drive I ordered will not work with this machine, sound right?

I still can not account for the videos I have watched for a PAV2300AWW being completely different than my PAV2300AWW machine? I have not looked at a whirlpool video in months. All the videos I watched were from places like repair clinic etc. and I only recently searched for them using the correct machine model number. This is still a big issue and the only thing I can come up with is somehow I am getting linked back to videos for the whirlpool somehow.

It looks like I came back to this thread instead of another thread or I used the wrong washing machine make and model when I first began this thread, not sure which happened. So confusing but happy I figured part of this out.

I have parts to return after looking at schematics and drawings of PAV2300AWW parts, I do not see a basket drive used for the MAYTAGS. NOW THE QUESTION IS WHAT DO I NEED TO STOP THE BASKET FROM ADVANCING WHEN IN WASH CYCLE, THE BASKET IS ADVANCING IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE AGITATOR IN A MAYTAG PAV2300AWW SERIES 12 MACHINE?

SPIN CYCLE WORKS FINE AS DOES EVERYTHING ELSE EXCEPT FOR BASKET ADVANCING WHILE AGITATING. I DID ORDER THE CORRECT PART TO FIX THE WATER VALVE ON THE MAYTAG AND THE REPAIR FOR THAT IS DONE.

 

 

[evaappliance]

the pav2300 is a completely different machine except for maybe the inlet valve. there is a brake tool for these, and to address the problem at hand. if it is wrapping your clothes around the agitator in wash ( I'm assuming this is why you noticed it ) you either have a bad brake or bad transmission causing your basket issue.  one way to tell is if the basket stops very quick at the end of a spin cycle and you can't turn it by hand when the machine is stopped , you have a bad transmission.    

[N9ZN-Extra]

I have a bad brake, I can turn the basket when machine is stopped and it takes several seconds for it to stop spinning.

That's good news I guess. Let me ask the brake tool I need, is it to compress the brake spring when installing and to release the spring slowly when removing the brake assembly?

OR

Is the tool the C shaped tool that wrenches the brake off the machine (don't think so but wanted to ask)? Neither of these tools are available from Maytag and consumers are being hijacked on pricing for aftermarket tools. In after market I could only find the C shaped tool but there is a work around for the compression / decompression (other) tool which is using longer self threading screws. From the correct video for my machine PAV2300AWW the work around was used to remove and replace the brake, brake spring, other misc. items on the shaft and the snubber ring. It did not show replacing the Brake Lining which I assume is done by buying a brake rotor.

If my guess is correct it is the brake rotor that I need to replace

The C shaped tool is used for another model machine that has 2 drive belts if I read correctly.

[evaappliance]

Let me ask the brake tool I need, is it to compress the brake spring when installing and to release the spring slowly when removing the brake assembly.........

 

it is this one,    http://www.tribles.com/parts/SP_BBRT-1

this is the tool #     there is a way to do it without a tool  but it is tricky.

[N9ZN-Extra]

I used two #12 x 1&1/2 inch regular HEX HEAD machine screws to replace two screws on opposite sides of the Stator prior to removing and installing my new brake rotor and stator. Those machine screws allowed the tension to be released from the springs during disassembly and the spring compressed during installation. Videos are available online showing how this is done. Using the machine screws in place of that expensive brake spring tension tool was easy and worked like a charm.

The Brake rotor, brake stator were replaced. I also found the machine was missing components in the Thrust Bearing area. This threw me off for a while because the prior owner did not realize or did not mention parts were missing. Instead he had greased the brake rotor and stator causing the spinning drum during agitation.

Once I realized parts of the Thrust Bearing assembly were missing when I purchased this used machine I ordered a new Thrust Bearing Kit and ran into trouble trying to install the retaining clip. This is now been solved and is explained in detail in my last post to the thread below.

As an aside I located a previous model of Brake Rotor which had been superseded by a more recent part number. It was used in my machine before and it works fine mated with the current part number Brake Stator. (Saved about $30.00 doing this)

I am so sorry for the confusion earlier and my not realizing I had missing machine parts when I purchased my used washer. As of now everything is working like BRAND NEW!