Whirlpool dishwasher not heating

[Dbear13]

I have a Whirlpool WDF760SADB, about a year and a half old. In fact, it's new enough that I can't even find a parts diagram online.

I think the heater element is not working. My wife complained that it's not drying, and I've opened it during the wash cycle a couple of times, and the water is tepid. On the other hand, it seems to get stuff pretty clean. I haven't been around to open it when the cycle is done, but I'm pretty sure it's not working. 

I pulled it out and tested the element for continuity. It showed 13 ohms, which I think is good.

So what's my next step? I gather maybe the high limit thermostat needs to be tested, but without a parts diagram I don't know what I'm looking for.

Beyond that, I'd guess maybe it's the circuit board, but I'm really hoping that hasn't blown so soon,...

 

[lvasquez11]

Tech sheet is located in kick plate . 

Pick any three keys except start n cancel. Do the 123 123 123 key dance n it will run diagnostics 

it will count out error codes up to 4 of them. - 2 digit code  n it will run short cycle after all codes have been displayed 

check volage at heater during this cycle 

 

 

[evaappliance]

Check your water heater temp. The dishwasher only heats the water up one time . The heater temp is very important to cleaning well

[Dbear13]

< Tech sheet is located in kick plate .> D'oh. I had the plate off but didn't bother to turn it over...

So I ran the diagnostic a couple of times. It gave me alternating codes of F6 E6, then F7 E1. The tech sheet talks about codes being two digits. Can I assume the F number is the function, and the E number is the error?

During the second run, I hooked a VOM up to the leads to the heater. The voltage fluctuated, but never got above a few hundred millivolts. I also felt the water inlet line. It was warm, but not particularly hot. The hose bib itself was fairly hot, and the water from the faucet at the sink is quite hot, so I think I have hot water. When I opened the door after the diagnostic cycle, the air was somewhat warm, but the heater element was cold. All these suggest to me that the water supply is good, and the heating element isn't coming on.

Based on the F6 E6 diagnostics, I would guess I have to check the Temperature Sensing Circuit. Based on the F7 E1 chart, I should check the Water Heating circuit/Heat Dry circuit. How do I check those?

Does all this suggest anything obvious?

[lvasquez11]

Visually check heater to see any burnt out areas

Ohm out heater - I've seen the terminals burnt out at heater due gasket splitting 

While its final test - use amp clap on meter or take voltage

[Dbear13]

<Visually check heater to see any burnt out areas> I've done that. It looks fine.

<Ohm out heater - I've seen the terminals burnt out at heater due gasket splitting > I pulled the wires and measured resistance on the element. It showed 13 ohms.

<While its final test - use amp clap on meter or take voltage> I did that, and didn't get a voltage reading higher than about half a volt throughout the cycle.

[lvasquez11]

If control does not see temp riase during a wash cycle n error is logged. 

Check for open high limit - at front right area  

[Dbear13]

What's the high limit, and what does it look like? The tech sheet didn't include a parts diagram, so I still don't know where anything is...

[vee8power]

There's a digit missing after your model number; this one works for a 0, 1, or 2.

Part number: AP6016742

[Dbear13]

< There's a digit missing after your model number; this one works for a 0, 1, or 2>

Thanks, I figured that out when I double checked the plate on the dishwasher. I pulled the original number off the website I bought it from.

Is that accessible from the front, about in the center of the machine? I tested a part in that location which only had two leads. It showed 0 ohms, but I gather it's supposed to be open at room temperature? If so, then I think this is my bad part.

[vee8power]

The high limit is supposed to be closed at room temperature. It's looking like the control is the problem.

[Dbear13]

You mean the control board? I was afraid of that. That's really annoying on a dishwasher that's a year and half old...

[evaappliance]

annoying and way to common !

[Budget Appliance Repair]

After pulling the error codes, did you ever clear them and then check the heating system after the codes have been cleared?

If not then you may not have a real problem at all - any heating error will shut down the heating system on the new GWS, (Global Wash System), Whirlpool built dishwashers.  To reset the heating system the error codes have to be cleared.

You have to clear the codes and check all components as you have, if nothing like a bad hi-limit safety t-stat, broken wires or burnt out heating element then run and check to see if heating now.

 

[Dbear13]

4 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

After pulling the error codes, did you ever clear them and then check the heating system after the codes have been cleared?

If not then you may not have a real problem at all - any heating error will shut down the heating system on the new GWS, (Global Wash System), Whirlpool built dishwashers.  To reset the heating system the error codes have to be cleared.

You have to clear the codes and check all components as you have, if nothing like a bad hi-limit safety t-stat, broken wires or burnt out heating element then run and check to see if heating now.

 

No, I didn't. How do I do that?

[Dbear13]

Answered my own question. The Google thinks that running the diagnostic resets the system. We ran a load of dishes, and sure enough--heat!

I'm not sure what caused the problem in the first place, but I'm a happy camper. Thanks to all who responded.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Normally just running the diagnostics doesn't clear the codes, you have to push a certain button at the end of the 4 error codes that are displayed when doing the diagnostics/pulling error codes.

[Dbear13]

Well, that's interesting. So it apparently just decided to behave all of a sudden...

[vunger1]

I have this same problem. 

If I erase the error codes, how do I ensure that the problem is fixed in modes other than diagnostic? Do I actually have to run a non diagnostic cycle such as "normal" just to verify . And would I have to run the whole cycle or does the heater come on early in the cycle?

Surely techs aren't waiting through a whole cycle,, with calls to run and such

[vunger1]

Help me Rhonda

[vee8power]

On 8/3/2016 at 6:02 AM, Budget Appliance Repair said:

Normally just running the diagnostics doesn't clear the codes, you have to push a certain button at the end of the 4 error codes that are displayed when doing the diagnostics/pulling error codes.

It's either that or pick a cycle and wait with your amp clamp around the supply wire. Use the tech sheet to see how long to wait.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

23 hours ago, vunger1 said:

 

I have this same problem. 

 

Not sure why you're hijacking an old Grasshopper topic in the DIY forum instead of starting a new topic in the tech-only Kitchen forum. I'll close this one out and let you start a new topic there.