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    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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Posted

The dryer starts, the igniter glows and I hear a click then igniter shuts off. After a minute or so I smell gas. I have replaced the Igniter and gas coils which I tested and all ohms are as specified. Have tested the two temp sensors, the thermal fuse and flame sensor and all are showing continuity. What do I test next?

Thank you,

Jake 

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Posted

Sounds like you have insufficient gas pressure, or a spider web blocking the burner tube... if you smell gas, it means the solenoid coils have opened and are probably staying open, but if the flow of gas is not forceful enough to ignite from the glowing igniter element, you will smell it, but achieve no ignition. It doesn't take much of an obstruction to divert natural gas... Do not rule-out bad gas coils out of the new bag as that does happen on occassion as well.

I would make sure the gas shut-off valve is fully open and that the gas connector is not kinked- was the machine in a flood or in storage recently?

Posted
28 minutes ago, Jakelee said:

No it was working until last week. I checked the gas coils and they show the correct ohms? The shut off valve is wide open inside at the burner as well as the back of the unit. Gas connector not kinked. 

 

 

The dryer starts, the igniter glows and I hear a click then igniter shuts off. After a minute or so I smell gas. I have replaced the Igniter and gas coils which I tested and all ohms are as specified. Have tested the two temp sensors, the thermal fuse and flame sensor and all are showing continuity. What do I test next?

Thank you,

Jake 

 

Posted

Have you visually inspected the burner tube for webs or dust bunnies?

Posted

yes and it is free and clear of debris

 

Posted

My gas water tank is operating fine as well as my gas generator. 

Posted

I would go after the gas coils next, likely the booster/holder. Ohm's resistance readings aren't very useful where the solenoids are concerned...

Posted

I'm assuming that you tested for 120 volts being supplied to the unit and the igniter, and that you measured the current in the igniter circuit?   You said you replaced the 

gas coils, and the gas pressure is good,  The gas valve assembly might be the issue...especially if you're smelling gas! :burnin:

Posted

yes I tested the line it comes form the lower high temp sensor and is at 120volts to igniter/coil. I replaced the coils and would question if both my old and the new would operate the same way? The gas valve is pricey so Im checking all the options before I do. Any way to test the valve? 

BrewHobbyTech
Posted
On 8/9/2016 at 1:35 PM, Jakelee said:

The dryer starts, the igniter glows and I hear a click then igniter shuts off. After a minute or so I smell gas. I have replaced the Igniter and gas coils which I tested and all ohms are as specified. Have tested the two temp sensors, the thermal fuse and flame sensor and all are showing continuity. What do I test next?

Thank you,

Jake 

I'm going to assume this isn't a trick question......let's start with that. With how you described the problem my first two guesses would be......coils, one of the most common failures on gas dryers. My second guess would be that the gas has been turned off at a shutoff source somewhere. I would rule out the thermal fuse and ignitor, for obvious reasons. Very slim chance it's the flame sensor, but I'd still give it a 3% possibility......here's at least a couple ideas thinking outside the box......if everything else is good.....something is failing under a load condition......does this have a heat control board on it.....and if it does.......it has one or two relays(I believe they are both interchangeable).  Either of these could be bad, or it could be a bad timer.....

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I appreciate all the help and replies. I replaced the actual gas valve and that fixed the problem. Although it is said the valve only goes bad 2-3% of the time Im the exception.

 

Posted

Ahhh, ok! That was why I asked if it was in a flood- that is one of the few things I have seen damage the valve itself, corrodes the valve return springs or makes the valve stick in it's seat...nice work finding the problem Jake.

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