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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
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Posted

I have a Maytag Model MZD 2766FEW.  I cleaned the coils and set the temperature settings as cold as they go.  The Freezer Temperature is 11 degrees and the refrigerator temperature is 43 degrees.  I know the refrigerator gets its cold air from the freezer section.  They say the freezer should be set to 0 and refrigerator to 36-38 degrees.  

So I am wondering if the issue is a freezer or refrigerator problem.  To start I want to make sure the freezer temperature is correct.  Is 11 degrees at the coldest setting acceptable for the freezer?  If not how can I tell if a thermometer issue or a compressor / refrigerant low issue?

 

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Posted
  1. 0 degrees F is the accepted correct freezer temperature.
  2. if you suspect your thermometer: use two and compare the result. Ice cream is a good indicator- it will be firm at 15 degrees or lower

Make sure you don't have frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer, if so it usually indicates a frost blockage of your evaporator, remove the back panel in the freezer and look at the coils: they should have a dusting of frost across all the tubes, but if there is frost blocking the airway it means Defrost Failure.

I am leaning toward defrost failure because a freezer temp of 11 degrees should still allow for the unit to achieve 37 degrees in the fridge, though it would take more run time to do so with 11 degree, as opposed to, 0 degree freezer air...

Posted

 

4 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

Make sure you don't have frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer, if so it usually indicates a frost blockage of your evaporator, remove the back panel in the freezer and look at the coils: they should have a dusting of frost across all the tubes, but if there is frost blocking the airway it means Defrost Failure.

 

exactly right .  i'm leaning a little more to the coils not freezing down all the way , but this is a close one. 

BrewHobbyTech
Posted
14 hours ago, rwbil said:

I have a Maytag Model MZD 2766FEW.  I cleaned the coils and set the temperature settings as cold as they go.  The Freezer Temperature is 11 degrees and the refrigerator temperature is 43 degrees.  I know the refrigerator gets its cold air from the freezer section.  They say the freezer should be set to 0 and refrigerator to 36-38 degrees.  

So I am wondering if the issue is a freezer or refrigerator problem.  To start I want to make sure the freezer temperature is correct.  Is 11 degrees at the coldest setting acceptable for the freezer?  If not how can I tell if a thermometer issue or a compressor / refrigerant low issue?  

You said you cleaned the coils(condenser?) but you didn't mention if the condenser fan was running. If that's not running, that could cause this problem. How long have you monitored the temperature? Has it been a day or two or a week or more? If it's only been a day or two I'd probably go with a possible defrost problem, which probably only started a few days ago, and you finally noticed something wasn't quite right. If it's a defrost problem you'll notice the temps will keep rising in both freezer and ff section each day. Most common problem with this make and model would be the adaptive defrost control board, but about 10-15% of the time it does end up being the defrost heater and thermostat. The calrod type heater does burn out occasionally and it has the defrost termination t-stat attached, it's one unit, and replaced as a whole. 

If the temps have stayed relatively the same as you mentioned for more than a few days, then I may be leaning more toward a system problem. 

14 hours ago, rwbil said:

 

 

BrewHobbyTech
Posted
13 hours ago, Hiroshi said:
  1. 0 degrees F is the accepted correct freezer temperature.
  2. if you suspect your thermometer: use two and compare the result. Ice cream is a good indicator- it will be firm at 15 degrees or lower

Somewhere close to zero is good enough...kinda like horseshoes and hand grenades......and......if my beer is close enough to the temp I like it and the stuff in my freezer is frozen.....hey, it's good enough for me. Normal air temp, which may/will have about a 10 degree temperature swing in normal on/off cycles, should read somewhere in the neighborhood of -5 to +5 degrees......give or take a few degrees. After a defrost cycle it could read as high as 20 degrees.....that's air temp with no load(empty freezer).   

Just an FYI, and my opinion, and observation through the years.......I've never seen or felt ice cream being firm at 15 degrees. Ice milk...yeah....probably, but not ice cream. Here's what I was taught and it's done me good, and I believe is pretty accurate. Let me know if I have any inaccuracies on this because we all need to know what is true and what is not.....Obviously water freezes at around 32 degrees.......and what I'm about to say has to do with protein and fat content and sugar content, and also....your mileage may vary(YMMV).... Meat freezes at around 25 degrees.....not totally hard(steaks/chicken), but is fairly frozen. Concentrated juices in the small cans, such as orange juice has a fairly high sugar content and will be totally frozen hard at around 7 degrees. If there's less sugar in the product then it will solidify(rock hard, at a higher temp). Ice cream, with its high fat and sugar content will not be totally hard until it's around 5 degrees or lower. Above 7 degrees you'll definitely notice it soften some, and even more as the temp rises. What I'm posting here is a good rule of thumb, especially for those that do not use thermometers or newer tech stuff, and is pretty accurate diagnosing, or trying to guess fairly accurately the temp of a freezer in a matter of seconds. It's done me well for over two decades....and maybe it'll help others. As I said....let me know if I have any inaccuracies in what I said....or just give me any opinions you may have. 

Posted

Finally got a chance to work on the refrigerator again.  I have been monitoring the temperatures for a couple of weeks.  Freezer stays around 10 -11 degrees and refrigerator around 43-44 degrees.  I removed everything from the freezer and removed the back panel.  The evaporator fan is turning and seems to be working fine.  The condenser fan also is working fine.  Below is a picture of the evaporator coils.  You might have to expand on the photo to see what I am describing.  As you can see the coils in front are not frosted, but the coils in the back are and the top has a heavy dose of ice build up.

BTW, I could not see how to include an attachment so I screen captures the image.

http://screencast.com/t/OQEB08nI8Xf

 

Is this a defrost issue or a low refrigerant issue.  If defrost how can one test if it is the sensor or the control board?

BrewHobbyTech
Posted

It's obviously a system problem, not a defrost problem. It's either low on refrigerant or a partial restriction. The picture is fairly good, and I appreciate you posting it, however, even when I enhance the picture I can't tell for sure. One thing I will say, even if you put gauges on the low and hi side, the readings for a partial restriction and low refrigerant are similar, as are obviously the visual and temperature readings. But, I'll put my non reputation on the line and say it's a partial restriction. If you add refrigerant and the frost line goes down the entire evaporator it's probably low on refrigerant......but....it also could be that you temporarily broke the partial restriction, which will most certainly come back........yeah, it's fun........but, I'll go with a partial restriction......  

Posted

BrewHobbyTech,

 

That is what I was thinking.  I work on HVAC all the time, but refrigerators at least this one does not even have service valves to check the charge.  It is a nice side by side refrigerator but if I have to add service valves and all I think it is not worth it.

Posted

A bullet piercing valve is a few dollars,  not a problem to check the charge.  

Posted

I will pick up one and check the charge.  Maybe I will luck out and it is a super slow leak.

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