Bosch B22CS30SNS/01 Temperature Alarm

[lou123]

My Bosch Refrigerator Model# B22CS30SNS/01 tripped a temperature alarm and stopped cooling.  Appears the system shut down so I'm looking for any troubleshooting or repair info available.  

[vee8power]

Nothing is running on the fridge? What are the temperatures in the compartments?

[lou123]

The alarm triggered because the freezer temp dropped to 34.  When I cancelled the alarm on the front panel it flashed the temp.  All the lights work, the water and ice dispenser function but there is no noise from the compressor or any fans.  I suspect it may be one of the boards, I believe I replaced one a couple of years ago to fix a problem with the water and/or ice dispenser.  Was trying to find what tests to eliminate other causes before I blame the board.  Have not taken anything apart yet to inspect...maybe signs of arcing or overheating ??

[vee8power]

Open the freezer door and push the door switch with your finger; does the fan come on? What is the actual temperature of the freezer and fresh food compartments now?

[lou123]

This started 2 days ago so I have since unplugged the fridge until I can figure out how to check it.  I plugged it back in and after a few noises and resets the alarm came back on showing 54 in freezer.  I opened the door and tried holding the switch down.  Yes, the fan does come on but I never heard the compressor kick in.  I can leave it plugged in but I don't think the compressor is working.

[Hiroshi]

You will want to pull the machine out and remove the bottom panel from the back of the compressor compartment, turn the controls to an "on" position and lay your hand on the compressor to feel if there is any vibration to hint it may be running... this Fridge has an inverter board to start the compressor- so you are going to want to test it before throwing money down on the computer control...

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Board/00647583/1561071?mr=0  -----> this is a picture of the inverter board that will be situated near the compressor

[lou123]

I had the panel off and the unit on.  Just double checked and the compressor is not running....no vibration at all.  How do you test the inverter board ?

I have a DVM if you could walk me through it. 

[Hiroshi]

The inverter should have 120VAC going into it on the larger set of wires. To test the smaller wires, leave them hooked together for testing, push your meter leads in the back of the smaller wire molex connector and you should have from 3-6VDC. The 3-6 VDC is the signal from the control board to the inverter- and if it is there, but the compressor is not running, replace the inverter board. If the signal voltage is NOT present, then you will likely have to replace the board that is responsible for sending that 3-6 volts... You can test the integrity of the compressor windings by setting the meter to Ohm's resistance and you should get an equal reading from any set of two pins, in any combination. (Usually 6-8 ohms)

Edited September 29, 2016 by Hiroshi

[lou123]

I have 120 and at best 2.3V.  I tried it twice and during start up the control boards are clicking quite a bit and the low voltage fluctuates between 2.2 - 2.37 but never gets to 3 volts, let alone 6.  If there is not at least 3 volts does that mean the inverter will not start the compressor. I'm assuming the higher the low voltage reading the faster the compressor would run.  Being that the temp is like 62 in the freezer I would think the voltage should settle pretty close to 6 ?  New control board ?

[vee8power]

That's the same readings I got on this model. The low voltage is a data signal, not a constant power supply. It sounds like the inverter is the culprit as long as the compressor windings all ohm out the same and they're not case grounded.

Part number: AP4397817

Edited September 29, 2016 by vee8power
addd part link

[lou123]

I get 0.00 ohms between all pin readings on the compressor. When testing from each pin to case I get 1.0 ohms on all. 

[vee8power]

Those look like erroneous readings.

When checking between pins, use the lowest resistance range on your meter, not  the continuity setting though. From each pin to ground, use the highest resistance range; it will say (M)ohms.

 

[lou123]

The reading between pins is 6.7 ohms, the readings to the case don't change, they are all infinite. 

[vee8power]

Good. Compressor looks good. By elimination, it's the inverter.

 

[lou123]

Thanks for all the help.  I'll see if I can find someone local that stocks one or else I guess I can order one on the internet...just would be nice to have it done for the weekend   I'll update you when I get it installed     Thanks again  

 

[vee8power]

I used this GE part to fix the one I had.:

Part number: AP5669522

[BrewHobbyTech]

On 9/29/2016 at 10:52 PM, vee8power said:

I used this GE part to fix the one I had.:

Part number: AP5669522

Hey bro.......just wondering........in your experience........how many times is the inverter bad...? and how many times are both the compressor and inverter bad.........and actually......do you really know if the compressor is bad??? How can you tell??.........I know........but I want you to tell me.........

[vee8power]

11 hours ago, BrewHobbyTech said:

do you really know if the compressor is bad??? How can you tell??.........I know........but I want you to tell me.........

Most of my experience with these I have has been the inverter going bad, hardly ever a bad compressor.

Admittedly, a multi-meter isn't the right tool.to check for case grounds, but it would catch an obvious one. Lou can be pretty sure that the compressor is good using just a multi-meter . If you know a better way, Brew, let him/her know.

[lou123]

Just an update.  I replaced the inverter and all is working great.  Thanks for all your help.  Also, the lack of amp draw showed the inverter was not even trying to start the compressor.  I was a mechanic for a lot of years and find a lot of satisfaction in repairing things as well as helping people out with their own repairs.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge on a subject I'm not as well versed with. 

[red chili]

as Brew failed to mention one would need a meg-ohm meter to test for sure that the windings on the compressor are actually good...

 

beyond that Brew how would you tell on this compressor (3phase) if it was good without using a known-good inverter to test it with ?

really curious now....

 

[joshdquimby]

vee8power,

I have the exact same model B22CS30SNS/01 with what appears to be the same problem. I performed the tests you recommended above and have the following results:

Inverter board large wires: 120V

inverter board small wires: 4.6V to 4.7V

Compressor resistance between any two pair of pins: 6.4 ohms

Compressor resistance between any single pin and ground: infinite (same as not testing anything)

Based on the thread above the inverter board is bad.

Is there anything else I can test to verify the inverter is bad? There is no power at the inverter connection that plugs into the compressor, should there be?

Also there is power inside the refrigerator, (lights on) the condenser fan cycles on, the door display works, the freezer evaporator fan sounds like it is running.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

 

Sincerely, 

Joshua

[vee8power]

That's about all there is to diagnosing a variable speed compressor that isn't running.

Buy the inverter from the link above and they'll take it back if it doesn't solve the problem.

[joshdquimby]

I received the inverter today, but i have a couple of questions.

Firstly, the inverter sent has Embarco model number 200D5948P023 instead of 200D5948P012

It also has an output of 230V-53 TO 133Hz instead of 53 TO 150Hz

Is the lower max Hz output going to effect performance? Did they ship me the wrong part?

The compressor rating is also 53 TO 150Hz

 

[vee8power]

Is the part # on the package WR49x10283? The picture from the link above shows the correct frequency and Embraco part# as your original one. Where did you get yours? 

[joshdquimby]

The shipping invoice shows WR49x10283 and I ordered it from the link above. You are correct that the photo of the inverter on appliancepartspros.com shows the correct frequency. I will call them today and explain that they shipped the wrong inverter.