Bosch B22CS30SNS/01 Temperature Alarm

[joshdquimby]

Vee8power,

Appliancepartspros.com sent out a replacement of the part and the new one was the same 133Hz. Is it possible that GE changed the replacement part with one with a lower max frequency?

I put it in my fridge and it seems to be working fine, but I wonder if the max cooling capacity is reduced with the lower max frequency?

See below:

Also I found someone with the same problem on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1FPXTUYOWNAYA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00LQDI048#R1FPXTUYOWNAYA

 Wrong part sent for a second time!!!, January 5, 2017

By 

Ronald A. Petersen

 

Verified Purchase(What's this?)

This review is from: General Electric WR49X10283 Refrigerator Inverter Board (Tools & Home Improvement)

This is the second one I ordered since the first one was not correct, I went back on line and checked the listing and my part matches what is shown in the pictures with all the numbers and letters on the tag. Told them this on the response with the first one and than received the same wrong part a second time. Part in picture is what I need, all the numbers match perfect to the one I removed from our fridge. What was sent is not the same as what is pictured. I think you have the wrong part number listed with the item shown? We have been keeping our food cold in coolers the last week and half and we are very upset with this. See pics!!!! Humm

 

[abaesemann]

I have put in the new ones in some GE fridges and there is no difference in cooling.

[joshdquimby]

Abaesemann,

Thank you for letting me know that the lower max frequency does not effect cooling. Do you know why GE swapped the old part for this one? Cost savings? Lower max frequency runs the compressor at a lower max speed, possibly reducing heat and preventing the inverter from failing?

[abaesemann]

2 hours ago, joshdquimby said:

Thank you for letting me know that the lower max frequency does not effect cooling. Do you know why GE swapped the old part for this one? Cost savings? Lower max frequency runs the compressor at a lower max speed, possibly reducing heat and preventing the inverter from failing?

I have not looked into it, I just assumed it was a new design and hopefully works better.

[johntech]

They never want us to know why they are substituting parts. If there ins a service bulliten for a known condition we can speculate but they change parts all the time. Sometimes it is for energy efficiency, sometimes it so they are compatible with newer models, sometimes because the part has a high failure rate, other time they just found a cheaper way of doing things. I choose to use the term "updated" and not think about it too much. 

[fakeid]

Hey johntech,

I'm experiencing the same problem from Appliancepartspros.com using Vee8power's original link. I'm wondering if you could let me know how you get the invert to fit in your Bosch fridge because the wires and harness aren't plug-in-and-fit for me.

THanks!

 

[Hiroshi]

Since the "guts" of the parts are the same, you should be able to expose the circuit board inside and transfer your original connectors to the new board.

[fakeid]

33 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

Since the "guts" of the parts are the same, you should be able to expose the circuit board inside and transfer your original connectors to the new board.

I'll take another look. I actually tried to see if I could simply transfer the wire harness but there are soldered parts and wires don't match, so I don't want to risk tempering it before asking since it sounds pretty straight forward in other responses. I'm debating if it's worth saving the trouble to just get the specific Bosch part as I'm not a professional in this. Thanks for the advice regardless.

[Hiroshi]

00647583 is the Bosch part number. The reason we techs suggest using the GE part it because it is manufactured by Embraco, so it is the same part, just a different price... the Bosch OEM inverter is $320.00.

Your cash, your choice.

[fakeid]

23 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

00647583 is the Bosch part number. The reason we techs suggest using the GE part it because it is manufactured by Embraco, so it is the same part, just a different price... the Bosch OEM inverter is $320.00.

Your cash, your choice.

A couple questions if you don't mind. I absolutely would like to use the GE part if I could. Did you have to re-solder the connector? I'd like to confirm before I rip it apart.

Also, I looked into the OEM option, but all images don't appear to even have the side wires (6-wire harness + ground) except the connector to the compressor. Am I still supposed to transfer the harness? If that's the case, I might as well stick with the GE part since I have to solder and transfer anyway.

Here's an example image:

Thanks in advance!

[Hiroshi]

When you open the housing you will see that there is no soldering required, the wires are connected to the board with terminals not solder. "Ripping" the box apart is not necessary either, just release the clips and open it up... the circuit boards will be identical- just go by wire location and transfer them over. I have never had to solder one of these...

[fakeid]

2 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

When you open the housing you will see that there is no soldering required, the wires are connected to the board with terminals not solder. "Ripping" the box apart is not necessary either, just release the clips and open it up... the circuit boards will be identical- just go by wire location and transfer them over. I have never had to solder one of these...

That's a great relief... let me try that. Thanks!

[noway]

Just a quick note of thanks for the info in this thread...

My Bosch B22CS30SNS/01 quite cooling yesterday. When the same happened about six months ago, a coil cleaning/blowout got things working again, but this time the compressor wasn't running.  

As outlined earlier, checked input voltages into the compressor control board (good) and ohmed out the compressor (good), so decided to the control board was shot (can you say poorly designed part?).  The Bosch part was double the price, but more importantly a special order part about everywhere, so I decided to try the GE part WR49X10283.

I found a local shop that had the GE controller in stock on a Sunday on New Year Eve's day...   The harness is different, but the circuit board looks identical except for the difference in frequency described above.  Swapped over the harness (no soldering, no hassles), installed the board, plugged it in, and a minute later, my compressor was running!  Several hours later, temperatures are great inside the freezer and fridge, and I'm officially declaring it fixed!

Also of note is that the version of the GE controller above has a big metal heat sink on the outside of the plastic case where the original Bosch part had none.  If the board failures were heat related (very likely), this part is also likely to last quite a bit longer. Hopefully the life of the fridge!  

[EAD]

I stumbled across this thread after I bought a Bosch replacement controller, so I also order the GE variety as a potential back-up.

Any updates on the use of the GE controller for the Bosch B22CS30SNS/01? Have you noticed any issues over time if you installed the GE controller in your Bosch unit?

Thanks!

[jerome.brian1]

Found this thread while researching what might be wrong with my Bosch. I had the same symptoms of the freezer alarm going off and the unit losing it's cool. Fan will still operational. This fix worked great! As mentioned, I had to change the connectors on the inverter board but only took a few minutes.

[BrioPA]

This was extremely helpful, not only providing a test procedure and a fix, but also the link to a generic part saving around $200 compared to the Bosch-marketed original.

I took the old inverter apart (the case slides apart) and both the large capacitors inside were bad, and there was a coating of fluid droplets over the inside of the inverter case.

IMG_2149 copy.heic

[KLR 650]

The wiring is different on the GE  part. I need to switch the wiring  harnesses from the old Bosch part to the new GE replacement.     The right harness of each part, are connected to prongs via clip. The attachment is solid & cant remove either part. They are U shaped connectors.