Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bought it new on 1-2-15, no extended warranty. It stopped cooling, both fans run, lights, etc work fine. No ice build up,..compressor wont run at all. Checked compressor winding resistance, all 3 checks from pin to pin were 7ohms each. I dont have and cant find the wiring schematic, was trying to verify voltage at "compressor perverter" 120vac is good to connector, without schematic, im unsure where the dc voltage originates, but using my vom, i i had a reading of 2 to 4vdc at the connector to the inverter..not sure why it fluctuated like it did,..however, i was using my Fluke 1520 Megometer, i dont think it reads true rms or fine voltages easily.

 

Hoping for a bit of insight to say im on the right path and that it is most likely the inverter which failed.

  • Replies 7
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • zmaxhunter

    5

  • northeastappliance

    2

  • Hiroshi

    1

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Normal inverter signal voltage is listed as 3-6 VDC, if you have 120VAC and your signal and no compressor start, then it is the inverter.

Part number: WR49X10283

Part number: WR49X10283

 

This is the cheapest and most versatile inverter kit!

Posted

Sure does sound like a bad inverter. I would also check each pin to one of the copper lines.

Posted

Any insight into understanding the service diagnostic functions and is there a certain test which will tell me if its a bad thermister.

 

With this unit, pressing "water, crushed, cubed" simultaneously enters diagnostics..

Code 00 24 is FF1 thermister test,..not sure what the test result numbers mean, is it an ohms reading? Says 7306

Yet code 00 25 is FF2 thermister test, test result is -- --, perhaps there is no FF2??

Posted

I did check each pin to ground, all are clear

Posted

For future info to others, I found the Technical Data sheet underneath the plastic cover on top of the unit, remove the 5-1/4" screws and it is tucked in with the wiring

Posted

If you are getting 120v a/c on the big plug and 3-6 DC Volts on the small plug you know the main board is gathering the data and telling the inverter to run the compressor. 

With each pin being equal ohms and none are shorted, I would say the compressor is ok.  

Order it from the link above. If for some odd reason it does not work, you can return it and you are only out the shipping. 

If you are really concerned about the thermistor, you can always put it in an ice bath and check resistance. Should be 16.3K ohms. 

Posted

Sry, i hear you, but im out the shipping and the additional days, weeks, month without a fridge..im looking more for a 100% yes this is bad replace it,..good to go.. thank you both for your help, i do appreciate the replies.

I should highly consider branching out into appliance repair,..there is no one here locally who does it,..closest is about 25m away.. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...